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Upper Gorge
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Don't Cry Over Spilt Milt TR 
Mate, Spawn, and Die 
Salmon Steak TR 

Upper Gorge Rock Climbing 

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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Stokes on Dec 31, 2008

42° | 37°

50° | 39°

45° | 33°

42° | 31°

43° | 32°

48° | 39°
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Upper Gorge, climbs in view Salmon Ladder, Don't C...


One of the main climbing areas downstream of the main falls. This area is fed by small streams that produce reliable climbs. This is also the best area to rappel into the Gorge. Bring long slings and cordalettes for setting up top ropes. There are plenty of trees to use for anchors.

Getting There 

From the parking area head downstream along the rim of the Gorge less than a quarter of a mile. There is usually a trail broken from the kiosk along the rim of the Gorge to the tops of the climbs. Be aware of snowmobiles as there is an abandoned road that runs along the gorge that is also a snowmobile trail.
Rappelling to the river from the top of the gorge is the easiest way in. The base of Salmon Steak can be reached with a 60m rope, from there it is an easy scramble down to the river.
Note: If you rappel in, do so only where there is ice to the bottom. The side of the gorge between the main falls and the upper gorge contain a number of rare and endangered plant species.
Option two is to glissade down the Gorge trail and slog up the river bottom to the base of the climbs. The Gorge trail starts at the information kiosk and heads down a steep trail to the base of the main falls. From here head downstream, staying to the right side of the river.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Upper Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber near the top of the ice on Mate, Spawn, an...

Mate, Spawn, and Die WI5 M4  NY : Salmon River Falls (Ice) : Upper Gorge
THE classic, hard ice route in central New York, and one of the most reliable routes in the Salmon River Amphitheater. Climb steep pillars to a steep left-facing corner with a bolt, then up mixed terrain to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

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