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Upper Gorge

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All You Can Eat 
Basement, The 
Cracked Towers 
Dihedrals 
Failsafe Wall 
Flavin Haven 
Franklin's Tower 
Gorgeous Towers 
Gotham City 
Holy Trinity 
ICBM Tower 
Joe's Garage 
Junior Area 
Lower Elbow Room 
Middle Elbow Room 
Mini Buttress 
Sanitarium 
Trestle Wall 
Triple Play Cliff 
Underground Cliff 
Upper Elbow Room 
Warm Out Wall 

Upper Gorge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.52662, -118.57462 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 74,665
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
Forecast:
This Afternoon

94° | 68°
Monday

90° | 63°
Tuesday

90° | 60°
Wednesday

91° | 62°
Thursday

94° | 63°
Friday

97° | 64°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Aerili on "Pumping the Slots". Photo by ...

Description 

The Upper Gorge is a little narrower and more winding than the other sections of the Gorge. The cliffs face a variety of directions allowing the ability to chase shade or sun. There are several popular cliffs including the Gorgeous Towers, Gotham City, the Dihedrals and the Flavin' Haven. There is a good amount of quality moderates in the Upper Gorge. The hard climber should check out the Trestle wall, Holy Trinity, Joe's Garage and Franklin's Tower.

Getting There 

Use the Upper Gorge parking lot, hike down the upper power plant road for a couple minutes looking for a steep trail down to the right. This trail leads into a 3rd class gully and then down a steep rocky trail.

The page shows the coordinates for around the north parking area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.1 miles from here

157 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',70],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',11],['5.9',19],['5.10',59],['5.11',39],['5.12',22],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Gorge:
Step Right Up   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   All You Can Eat
Gangsta Lean   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Dihedrals
Slip 'n Slide   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 115'   Lower Elbow Room
Cinderella   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   All You Can Eat
Nice Jugs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Flavin Haven
Slackjaw   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Dihedrals
Snapping Pussy Doll   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Triple Play Cliff
Giveaway   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Gorgeous Towers
Machine Gun Jumblies   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Gotham City
Lava Haul   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Flavin Haven
Dr. Evil   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Gotham City
Wacked Scenario   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Gorgeous Towers
Gorgeous   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Gorgeous Towers
Superfly   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 180'   Gotham City
Pick Pocket   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Holy Trinity
O.R.G.asam   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Dihedrals
Grindrite   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Gotham City
Knucko's Pride of the North   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Gorgeous Towers
C'mon Knucko   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Gorgeous Towers
Flex Your Head   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Gotham City
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Gorge

Featured Route For Upper Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the route.

Machine Gun Jumblies 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Gotham City
Machine Gun Jumblies is a long, well protected moderate face climb that continues above Double Flipper 5.9. Best to climb that route and keep on going up this route in one pitch.Jumblies liebacks up the right facing corner above the Double Flipper anchor past a committing wide lie-back move between the first and second bolts. Above this the climbing eases back to 5.9/5.8. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Upper Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Swallowtail photographed at the Flavin Haven.
Swallowtail photographed at the Flavin Haven.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beavers also have plans to dam the Gorge. Photo by...
Beavers also have plans to dam the Gorge. Photo by...
Rock Climbing Photo: Some damn fine FREE campsites along the upper gorg...
BETA PHOTO: Some damn fine FREE campsites along the upper gorg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper, upper gorge.
BETA PHOTO: Upper, upper gorge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gorgeous Towers, center.
BETA PHOTO: Gorgeous Towers, center.
Rock Climbing Photo: The narrow section of the upper gorge looking nort...
BETA PHOTO: The narrow section of the upper gorge looking nort...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out over the Gorge from the upper parking ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking out over the Gorge from the upper parking ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stream crossing action below Flavin Haven.
Stream crossing action below Flavin Haven.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking south down the Upper Gorge from the parkin...
Looking south down the Upper Gorge from the parkin...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Upper Gorge, from the approach trail
The Upper Gorge, from the approach trail

Comments on Upper Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Apr 15, 2008
So much more natural than the Lower Gorge - quite a pleasant spot.

A cairn marks the start of the descent - look for it on the right as you walk down the road.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 3, 2008
Why is every perfectly protectable crack in this area bolted??
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 3, 2008
The LADWP enforces a strict "no tradding" rule in the Gorge as part of the use agreement. Bolts only! First offense is a confiscation of any hardware deemed "Trad" and a $50.00 fine payable to the ASCA.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 4, 2008
Are you serious. WOW! That is pretty odd. Thx for letting me know.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 5, 2010
i heard fines double if they catch you with hexes
By JeffL
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 29, 2012
There is a rappel approach described in the book, here is the beta from personal experience. The hardest part is the first 3rd class scramble. There is a cairn marking the chimney or 4th class part just before the rappel bolts. We fixed a line and rapped the chimney with our packs, but down climbing and lowering packs would be ideal. Make sure you have a 60m rope to hit the ground, 70m is better for comfort as you can rappel past some scrambling. Watch for nettles as you pick up a trail and head upstream. One bridge you cross is nice, the other is broken
By Marcus Russi
From: New Haven, CT
Dec 27, 2014
Going off of what JeffL said, the rappel approach is kinda sketchy. My partner and I had a lot of trouble finding the chimney Jeff mentions, and before you get to it you have to scramble down a bunch of really loose sandy stuff. The chimney may well be 4th class but if you fall while downclimbing it, it would be gnarly. You definitely want a 70m for the rappel. I think it is likely that unless you've done this particular approach before, you would save time by just walking down the road.
By J. Hickok
Mar 1, 2015
Well then don't be lazy and just hike down. It's not that far.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 6, 2017
The GPS coordinates for the Upper Gorge Parking turn-off are: 37 31.359 N, 118 34.601 W

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