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Upper East Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Trust T 
DH1? T,S 
Enlightenment, The S 
Grey Elk's Big Rack T 
Long Live Rock T,S 
Mile High Comic Crack T 
Nighthawk  T 
Saturday Treat T 
Schizofrantic T 
Ticket, The S 
Vicious Rumors T 
Young and the Rackless, The S 

Upper East Face Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.00244, -105.38754 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,897
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 30, 2006
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  • Description 

    Upper East Face is the steep wall on the right side of East Blob Rock.

    It has some great, harder routes like Schizofrantic (11b), The Ticket (12a), and The Enlightenment (13b). It also has the most popular multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon, The Young and the Rackless (9).

    Routes from left to right:

    above A. Unknown, 12+?, bolts.
    A. The Young and the Rackless, 9, 2-4p, 300', bolts.
    B. DH1?, 9+, 4p, 300', bolts & gear.
    C. Blind Trust, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
    D. Grey Elk's Big Rack, 11- PG-13, 3p, gear & bolts.
    E. Nighthawk, 10-, gear.
    F. Mile High Comic Crack, 12-, gear.
    G. Shock Therapy?, 12-
    H. The Enlightenment, 13, bolts.
    I. Schizofrantic, 11b, bolts + gear.
    J. Saturday Treat, 8+, 1p, 90', gear.
    K. Vicious Rumors, 11, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
    L. The Ticket, 12-, bolts.
    M. Long Live Rock, 11-, 100', gear.

    Getting There 

    Take the trail to Blob Rock. Head right and down below Blob Slab, then cut up the gully on the right side of East Blob. The Young and the Rackless starts by a dead tree; the other routes lie up the gully from there.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 4.1 miles from here

    12 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Upper East Face

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper East Face:
    The Young and the Rackless   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
    Nighthawk    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Long Live Rock   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Schizofrantic   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    The Ticket   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Mile High Comic Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    The Enlightenment   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper East Face

    Featured Route For Upper East Face
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shane entering the crux.

    The Enlightenment 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Upper East Face
    An overhanging bolted finger crack way over on the right side of Blob, right of the Blob slab, and up the gully. This is certainly one of the hardest pitches in the canyon and only the big jug in the middle keeps it from solid 5.13c. A stout opening fingercrack (tape!) with no footholds leads to a burly move with really bad footholds. A few more jams lead to a big flake. Relax here because the end is tenuous, awkward, and just a bit hairy on the lead. For you trad purists, doing this route on ge...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Upper East Face Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Blob Rock Area.  Original photo by Jack Wyatt.
    BETA PHOTO: Blob Rock Area. Original photo by Jack Wyatt.

    Comments on Upper East Face Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By DamnitHiggins
    From: Denver
    Nov 17, 2013
    What is the bolted line above the second pitch on The Young and the Rackless? It is a long pitch, 12+ bolts, that goes left from just above the 2nd anchors. Starts about 40 feet left, not really walkable from the 2nd anchors, have to rap in from the 3rd anchors. Heads up some bulges then straight up the steep headwall that is perfectly flat about 20 yards west (uphill) of TYATR. Seemed like 12+ to me, couldn't find it on MP at all. Didn't get to the top, two bolts short but seemed like the nothing was above it, definitely nothing was bolted below it; we had to rap to a ledge and walk climber's left to the first anchors of TYATR. Anyone know?

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