REI Community
Upper Devils Canyon

Select Area...
Beach, The 
Lost Wall 
Pancake House 
Throne/Universe Wall, The 

Upper Devils Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,500'
Page Views: 14,734
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 4, 2006


78° | 56°

78° | 57°

83° | 62°

84° | 63°

85° | 62°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Replace feet quickly.

Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area MORE INFO >>>


Upper Devils Canyon is a deep north-south canyon located just east of the Oak Flat Campground. The routes are found on various outcroppings along the western (mostly) slope of the canyon. A fire plowed through this area a while back, wiping out most of the thick foliage along the western side of the canyon. There are many braided trails and what looks like a blossoming erosion problem looming.

The route tend to be of a mixed nature, both edges and pockets. Maybe a little heavier on the pockets and lots of little pockets to work those fingers. There is a pretty good range of routes here as well, with lots of moderate routes being put up over the last few years.

This area mostly faces to the east, and it is entirely possible to climb after (approx.) mid-morning here during the cooler (less hot?) days of the summer months.

Getting There 

After turning off highway 60 and going down the hill toward Oak Flat CG, take the first left and drive on that road around the eastern end of Oak Flat (off to the right) and up a hill. Keep going east on the dirt road until you start south and take a spur road back left (east) to park near one of the big power towers along the west side of Upper Devils Canyon. A trail leads over to the rim and down into the canyon near the Pancake House Area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.6 miles from here

47 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Devils Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Devils Canyon:
Cool Breeze   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 40'   Pancake House
Dr. Giggles   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Cracker Jack Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Projectiles   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Lost Wall
Lumberjack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne/Universe Wall
French Toast   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   Pancake House
Ferocious Flo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Queen Creek Freak   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lost Wall
Moon Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Sunny-Side Up   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Pancake House
Tendon Teaser   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Earth Angel   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Deviled Hands   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   Pancake House
Frequent Flyer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Devils Advocate   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pancake House
Electric Skeletons   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Devils Canyon

Featured Route For Upper Devils Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Susan (left) climbing 'Queen Creek Freak' with Kar...

Queen Creek Freak 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Arizona : Central Arizona : ... : Lost Wall
Fun crack that angles right, then back left over a flake, finally ending in a great roof. Although the roof looks tough from the ground, there are some great hands that make the rating accurate. The crack has seen a number of climbs so it's smoother than most in the Queen Creek area. This climb is well worth doing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Comments on Upper Devils Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By ravisurdhar Surdhar
From: Phoenix, CO
May 14, 2015
Was here two weeks ago in the beginning of May 2015. It was forecast to be 100F in Phoenix, but it was high 70's and shady all afternoon at the Upper Devils Canyon walls! Perfect summer climbing destination. Surprisingly easy to find, and that's coming from someone who has bad experience route-finding. Some expanded details below though:

The parking lot is at these coordinates: 33.308244, -111.038085. Google Maps has good satellite imagery showing the dirt road to get there. I was able to do the road up to there in my 09 Outback just fine. After that point, the rocks get HUGE, so park and hike the rest of the way up the road (east), probably about 100m. You'll take a sharp right, then a sharp left, then come to a turn-around. Walk straight across and you'll see carins guiding your way down the slope and towards the UDC walls. The walls will be on your left, the bolt lines are fairly obvious. Now, if only someone would order the routes on here from R->L instead of A->Z... :)
By BAd
Jan 11, 2017
Note that the moderates listed in the Karabin are in many cases sand bags at this time. It looks like holds have broken off. We found 5.7's that were 5.9's. If it looks blank and thin, odds are it's a lot harder than the little paper foldout indicates. Be ready. Good climbing, however, and in a beautiful setting. Nice!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About