Upper Devils Canyon Rock Climbing
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Upper Devils Canyon is a deep north-south canyon located just east of the Oak Flat Campground. The routes are found on various outcroppings along the western (mostly) slope of the canyon. A fire plowed through this area a while back, wiping out most of the thick foliage along the western side of the canyon. There are many braided trails and what looks like a blossoming erosion problem looming.
The route tend to be of a mixed nature, both edges and pockets. Maybe a little heavier on the pockets and lots of little pockets to work those fingers. There is a pretty good range of routes here as well, with lots of moderate routes being put up over the last few years.
This area mostly faces to the east, and it is entirely possible to climb after (approx.) mid-morning here during the cooler (less hot?) days of the summer months.
After turning off highway 60 and going down the hill toward Oak Flat CG, take the first left and drive on that road around the eastern end of Oak Flat (off to the right) and up a hill. Keep going east on the dirt road until you start south and take a spur road back left (east) to park near one of the big power towers along the west side of Upper Devils Canyon. A trail leads over to the rim and down into the canyon near the Pancake House Area.
Weather station 0.6 miles from here
42 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Devils Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Devils Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Devils Canyon:
Featured Route For Upper Devils Canyon
Queen Creek Freak 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Arizona
: Central Arizona
: ... : Lost Wall
Fun crack that angles right, then back left over a flake, finally ending in a great roof. Although the roof looks tough from the ground, there are some great hands that make the rating accurate. The crack has seen a number of climbs so it's smoother than most in the Queen Creek area. This climb is well worth doing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in Arizona
By ravisurdhar Surdhar
From: Phoenix, CO
May 14, 2015
Was here two weeks ago in the beginning of May 2015. It was forecast to be 100F in Phoenix, but it was high 70's and shady all afternoon at the Upper Devils Canyon walls! Perfect summer climbing destination. Surprisingly easy to find, and that's coming from someone who has bad experience route-finding. Some expanded details below though:
The parking lot is at these coordinates: 33.308244, -111.038085. Google Maps has good satellite imagery showing the dirt road to get there. I was able to do the road up to there in my 09 Outback just fine. After that point, the rocks get HUGE, so park and hike the rest of the way up the road (east), probably about 100m. You'll take a sharp right, then a sharp left, then come to a turn-around. Walk straight across and you'll see carins guiding your way down the slope and towards the UDC walls. The walls will be on your left, the bolt lines are fairly obvious. Now, if only someone would order the routes on here from R->L instead of A->Z... :)
Jan 11, 2017
Note that the moderates listed in the Karabin are in many cases sand bags at this time. It looks like holds have broken off. We found 5.7's that were 5.9's. If it looks blank and thin, odds are it's a lot harder than the little paper foldout indicates. Be ready. Good climbing, however, and in a beautiful setting. Nice!