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Hoss Garden
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First Night at Fight Club T 
I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 
Keep it Heavy T 
Left Hook S 
Right Hook S 
Steiger Sanction, The S 
Upper Cut S 

Upper Cut 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Anthony Newman, Kent Wheeler, John Steiger, Clay W, etc
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, fall, summer
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017

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Start on the left set of bolts on the ramp, then u...

Description 

The best of the 10's at this crag. The upper face climbs like the steep 10's at Momentum: Long moves on huge holds.

Clip two bolts, then a cursed but short section of BCC .4 to the upper face. Once you're on the upper face, stem, pinch, and weave your way around the center set of bolts on this face.

Location 

Starts on the upper (left) set of bolts about 6 feet from the top of the ramp connecting the main staging area to the base of IDNSPR.

Protection 

8-ish bolts to chains.


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By tenesmus
Jul 9, 2017

This climb has the inherent characteristics of BCC: Some fantastic rock broken by an unfortunate ledge. This makes belaying somewhat funky.

You kind of need to start downhill of the first bolt but then you can't see the climber on the upper face. One way to alleviate this has been to have the leader clip the second bolt using a long draw with a locker on the rope, then unclip the first bolt. That allows the belayer to walk uphill and belay nearer the staging area, where you can see the climber on the upper face.

The hardest part of bolting this face was choosing which line to commit to. We eventually decided that since this is a short, squatty BCC face with good climbing, no one probably cares if we grid bolted it. Its been fun to connect the dots on all the little variations. If you needed a place for .10 arcing, you could do at least 10 different variations and never stop doing something new.

I like the body width area just left of the bolts on Upper Cut. Also, merging in from Left Hook near the second to last bolt is super cool, with all kinds of interesting holds.

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