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Upper Bulge Routes

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crucifix, The T 
Field of Dreams T 
Flakes, The T 
Le Toit T 
Pharaoh, The T 
Price of Fear, The T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Step, The T 
Super Pooper T 
Vampire, The T 

Upper Bulge Routes Rock Climbing 

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Location: 33.76015, -116.6846 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,010
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2008
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Reaching for the mantle holds on The Vampire.


The Upper Bulge of Tahquitz, a large tooth-shaped section of rock starting midway up the rock, appears from afar as smooth and mostly featureless, and while not entirely true it's home to some of the more difficult, sustained and classic routes on Tahquitz. While routes on the Upper Bulge are shorter in nature, averaging 3 to 4 pitches in length, the exposed nature of the climbing gives an exposed feeling not found on many of the other routes at Tahquitz.

Stretching from the right edge of the Maiden Buttress to the Royal's Arches Area this section of Tahquitz is packed with quality routes including Super Pooper (5.10a), The Price of Fear (5.10c), The Vampire (5.11a), The Flakes (5.11c), and Stairway to Heaven (5.12a).

Getting There 

Routes on the Upper Bulge can be approached by any of several different methods:

  • For The Step, Le Toit, Le Toilette or Super Pooper start up The Trough and cut left via From Bad Traverse (5.6) to reach the left side of the Bulge and From Bad Traverse (FBT) Ledge.

  • For The Flakes, Stairway to Heaven, The Price of Fear and The Happy Hooker (or if avoiding the 1st pitch of the Vampire) start up The Trough and midway along the traverse head up a clean left-facing corner system (5.7) to reach Vampire Ledge which is located directly below the center of the Bulge.

  • For The Pharaoh, The Vampire, The Bat and any of the routes on the right side of the Bulge start up The Trough and then head straight up at the start of From Bad Traverse along the right side of a steep, smooth buttress with the curving crack of The Pharaoh a good landmark.

  • As an alternative climb one of the Lower Bulge Routes and modify the approach accordingly.

See the individual route descriptions for more detailed approach information.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.8 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Bulge Routes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Bulge Routes:
The Step   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 600'   
Super Pooper   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
The Price of Fear   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Vampire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
The Flakes   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
The Crucifix   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Field of Dreams   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Stairway to Heaven   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Bulge Routes

Featured Route For Upper Bulge Routes
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Gaines leading Crucifix, 1995.  Photo by Sam R...

The Crucifix 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Bulge Routes
Climb the Bat Crack but instead of mantling at the top of the pitch, head up and then hard right to a 2 bolt anchor. From here, work your way up the smooth corner via excellent stemming / palming / crimps / slopers, busting left and right of the corner as needed. An excellent full value pitch with great position!...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Upper Bulge Routes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch ...
Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Before it was free climbed ~ Phil Gleason aiding '...
Before it was free climbed ~ Phil Gleason aiding '...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Vampire from the start of The Trough. You can ...
BETA PHOTO: The Vampire from the start of The Trough. You can ...
Rock Climbing Photo: West Face Bulge, Tahquitz Rock
West Face Bulge, Tahquitz Rock

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