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Upper Bolt Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: Tristan Burnham on Mar 12, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Bolt Route


Take either - Over Hanger 5.9, Arched Demon 5.11c/d, or Spike the Punch 5.10d up to the anchors. Then go up from there.

Go up a hand crack and clip a bolt or skip the bolt and put a bomber #2 cam in. Then continue up and there is a place to sling a bridge between 2 holes. Then keep working up and clipping bolts then head left onto the face and clip some more bolts until you get to the anchors in a little nook.

The book shows heading up the gully and then going left to upper bolt route. It looks pretty easy, but we weren't sure about bolts/anchors so we stopped there.

If you have the So Cal Sport climbing guide, the 3 bolt anchor is right where it says 592 on the topo.


Above Over Hanger 5.9, Arched Demon 5.11c/d, or Spike the Punch 5.10d.

2 raps to the ground from the 3 bolt anchor.


5 Draws and #2 yellow BD C4 and a shoulder length sling are both optional. The anchor is a 3 bolts with some tat webbing.

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