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Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 22
votes
Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons
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48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boldina T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Mona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Man's Land T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prick, The T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Scary Area T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Tiers of Fear T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unslung Heroes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ventre de Boeuf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Dennis Mehmet, Bill Goldner, 1965 FFA Hugh Herr, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 5,537 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Dec 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
Devious climbing with hard-to-place gear on a right-leaning arch. A good route with good gear...if you can hang in to place it.
Climb the corner just right of Ventre de Boeuf: trend right to the arch, and climb the arch to a small overhang (crux) to a slab. Reach the anchor and rap.
A note from Ivan Rezucha: I did what I thought was the FA on aid in the mid '70s. Dick Williams says it was done earlier by Dennis Mehmet & co., but I'm a little skeptical, as there were no pin scars. But perhaps in the hard Gunks rock, one aid ascent wouldn't leave any scars.
My "FA" was done as a self-belay, on all nuts, with hooks. At one point I did 3 hook moves in a row, with 2 hooks, by hanging on some small free holds as I moved a hook up. That was pretty exciting. I was either self-belaying with prussiks, or maybe I had moved up by then to jumars.
My name for the climb, "The Man Who Fell to Earth", came from this story: Jeff Pofit attempted (what we thought was) the second ascent. He didn't know that I had used hooks. He ripped his gear from the crux aid section, where the arch jogs right, and zippered a bunch of other gear due to the sideways pull caused by arching. He landed on his head at a soft spot between some rocks. I think he was carried away, but he would have been able to walk away.
The original route went right at the top of the arch to a platform on the arete, and then angled left and up on some nice free climbing at about 5.8. My understanding is that Hugh Herr & co. free-climbed the final traverse right to the arete, but that most people end the free climbing by exiting left near the top of the arch.
Climb the corner just right of Ventre de Boeuf: trend right to the arch, and climb the arch to a small overhang (crux) to a slab. Reach the anchor and rap.
A note from Ivan Rezucha: I did what I thought was the FA on aid in the mid '70s. Dick Williams says it was done earlier by Dennis Mehmet & co., but I'm a little skeptical, as there were no pin scars. But perhaps in the hard Gunks rock, one aid ascent wouldn't leave any scars.
My "FA" was done as a self-belay, on all nuts, with hooks. At one point I did 3 hook moves in a row, with 2 hooks, by hanging on some small free holds as I moved a hook up. That was pretty exciting. I was either self-belaying with prussiks, or maybe I had moved up by then to jumars.
My name for the climb, "The Man Who Fell to Earth", came from this story: Jeff Pofit attempted (what we thought was) the second ascent. He didn't know that I had used hooks. He ripped his gear from the crux aid section, where the arch jogs right, and zippered a bunch of other gear due to the sideways pull caused by arching. He landed on his head at a soft spot between some rocks. I think he was carried away, but he would have been able to walk away.
The original route went right at the top of the arch to a platform on the arete, and then angled left and up on some nice free climbing at about 5.8. My understanding is that Hugh Herr & co. free-climbed the final traverse right to the arete, but that most people end the free climbing by exiting left near the top of the arch.
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