REI Community
j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
48 T 
49 T 
Airy Aria T 
Blistered Toe T 
Bold-Ville T 
Broken Hammer T 
Carbs and Caffeine T 
Dissonance  T 
Double Crack T 
Fall, The T,TR 
Fillipina T 
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 
High Jinx T 
Ivan and the Saum T 
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 
Lisa T 
Lito and the Swan T 
Los Tres Cabrones T 
Lost in Yellow  T 
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 
No Man's Land T 
Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
Prick, The T,TR 
Scary Area T 
Shit Creek T 
Spring (P1), The T 
Sting, The T 
Summer, The T 
Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Tweak or Freak T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
Vader T 
Ventre de Boeuf T 
Wasp Stop T 
Winter, The T 
Wrath of the Lamb  T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dennis Mehmet, Bill Goldner, 1965 FFA Hugh Herr, 1981
Page Views: 2,503
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Dec 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]


Devious climbing with hard-to-place gear on a right-leaning arch. A good route with good gear...if you can hang in to place it.

Climb the corner just right of Ventre de Boeuf: trend right to the arch, and climb the arch to a small overhang (crux) to a slab. Reach the anchor and rap.

A note from Ivan Rezucha: I did what I thought was the FA on aid in the mid '70s. Dick Williams says it was done earlier by Dennis Mehmet & co., but I'm a little skeptical, as there were no pin scars. But perhaps in the hard Gunks rock, one aid ascent wouldn't leave any scars.

My "FA" was done as a self-belay, on all nuts, with hooks. At one point I did 3 hook moves in a row, with 2 hooks, by hanging on some small free holds as I moved a hook up. That was pretty exciting. I was either self-belaying with prussiks, or maybe I had moved up by then to jumars.

My name for the climb, "The Man Who Fell to Earth", came from this story: Jeff Pofit attempted (what we thought was) the second ascent. He didn't know that I had used hooks. He ripped his gear from the crux aid section, where the arch jogs right, and zippered a bunch of other gear due to the sideways pull caused by arching. He landed on his head at a soft spot between some rocks. I think he was carried away, but he would have been able to walk away.

The original route went right at the top of the arch to a platform on the arete, and then angled left and up on some nice free climbing at about 5.8. My understanding is that Hugh Herr & co. free-climbed the final traverse right to the arete, but that most people end the free climbing by exiting left near the top of the arch.


Start just right of Ventre de Boeuf.


Small to medium gear with double rp's.

Comments on Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 11, 2007

"The Man Who Fell To Earth" is a classic sci-fi movie staring the Chameleon of Rock, David Bowie. My favorite line from the movie:

"you're not at all like my father"
By Yotsuba
Apr 4, 2017

There was a rusted RP at the crux that popped out after I touched it - protectable with a #0 mastercam though.

Upper edges felt kind of greasy, or I was just sweating a lot... Also double-check that your belayer gives you a soft catch if you blow it just before the anchors, it's a decent swing into the wall otherwise.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About