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The Beach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Wisdom that is Woe S 
Albinestone S 
Apes and Ballerinas T 
Between the Cheeks S 
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 
Normandy S 
Perverse Traverse, The S 
Up'er Zipper T,S 

Up'er Zipper 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA Thomas Ramier, Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, Bradley Lignoski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,605
Submitted By: Thomas Ramier on May 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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View from The Beach. Double rainbow no way.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Amazing pure splitter crack climbing after the first pitch of flakes and bolts. Generally follows the upper 3 pitches of the Zipper aid line.

P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d.

P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow right-facing corner and then meets another overlap with some thin jams. By itself, this is 11a/b. Can be combined with P1 as one long pitch, it is probably 11b.

P3: Follow the same crack line. Climb a steep rib and stem in a short corner. This short pitch is about 10a. Ends at a luscious belay cove.

P4: Take the bolted face on the right to the summit. Has some interesting moves to an amazing lofty summit ledge at the top of the cheeks. about 10a.


If rappeling from the summit: Two raps straight down(stations added 9/4/16). Note: The first rap is a rope stretcher. If using a 60m rope be very careful. Tie knots!

Alternatively, if using a shorter rope, the descent can be broken into three rappels, stopping first at the top of pitch three.

If rappeling from the top of the second pitch: Two short raps straight down(station added 9/4/16)


Start off the Beach about 25' left of Apes and Ballerinas (aka Stock Options).


Standard rack to 3" with extra finger and hand sizes.

Photos of Up'er Zipper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Lignoski doing the final crux on P2 (combined...
Brad Lignoski doing the final crux on P2 (combined...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Nelson nearing the top of P2
Jon Nelson nearing the top of P2
Rock Climbing Photo: cams
Rock Climbing Photo: Last move on P2 of Up'er Zipper (11b).
Last move on P2 of Up'er Zipper (11b).
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad finishing P2 on Up'er Zipper (11b).
Brad finishing P2 on Up'er Zipper (11b).
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom nearing the top of P1 of Up'er Zipper (11b).
Tom nearing the top of P1 of Up'er Zipper (11b).
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting crux (10c/d) of the first pitch of the Up...
Starting crux (10c/d) of the first pitch of the Up...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Ramier starting the 4th and last pitch of the ...
Tom Ramier starting the 4th and last pitch of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing anchors below the summit pitch(P4)
Placing anchors below the summit pitch(P4)
Rock Climbing Photo: P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the first pitch of the Upper Zipper (11...
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the first pitch of the Upper Zipper (11...

Comments on Up'er Zipper Add Comment
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By braddean Lignoski
From: Seattle
May 29, 2013

For those with small hands:
Gear tip: If wide fist cracks (#4 BD) are very challenging for you, you might want to carry a #4. It is possible to place TCU's in the back of the wide sections, but if you like the security of pushing a cam when you are off-widthing, consider yourself warned.

If this route were on the lower wall it would be easily as popular as Sloe Children (Which is amazing, don't get me wrong).

Recently cleaned this route. Go do it! You won't be sorry.

(Be careful about the flake low and to the right near the very end of the route... I stood on it and it held, but be ginger... Now I just don't touch it. You can work around it using chicken heads and such)

By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Amazing route. Continuously interesting flake & knob climbing up to a short overlap at the end of P1, then a long straight crack for P2. Some leaders combine the two pitches.

Pitch 2 is mostly thin hand and fingers, but also has some hand jams and a few fist jams at the start. Pumpy crux at the bottom, more of a technical & power crux at the end. The last two pitches are short, but a blast as well.
By Chris Kalman
Jul 24, 2013

You can link the first two pitches, or endure the hanging belay at the chains on pitch 1. What may be better would be to climb past the chains on p1, pull the crux OW section, and belay at a good stance above.
By Laurel Fan
Jun 21, 2014

We climbed it last Wednesday. That was fun, thanks for the cleaning!

First two pitches were awesome (we found the first one to be a bit more than "semi" strenuous). Third was also fun but a bit dirty (there's a wire brush at the base, maybe that was a hint...). We passed on the fourth because it was wet.

Can rap the route with one 70m rope. Watch out for rope eating cracks when going from p2 anchor to p1 anchor.

Small offset cams are useful for the start of p2, especially if you are inclined to sew it up to avoid falling on your partner at the hanging belay. If you're skipping the belay maybe you don't need them because it'll be an air fall on to a big cam backed up by the chains...
By J.Cirillo
From: Seattle, Washington
May 31, 2015

Pitches 1 and 4 are completely bolted.
By Doug Hutchinson
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 17, 2016

Be careful rapping from the top of P2 to the top of P1. The plumb line takes you pretty far climber's left of the P1 anchors and out from the wall. The first rapper down should consider placing a few cams for directionals to keep you closer to the wall and the anchor. There may be a plumb line anchor installed in the near future to improve this.
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Jul 18, 2016

Did a trip report on this outstanding route, Thanks Doug for contributing to a fantastic day!
By Thomas Ramier
Sep 6, 2016

New top anchor added for decent. It is still better to bring the second up by improvising a belay off of the tree. If anyone wishes to replace the webbing with a proper chain anchor please do.

Rock Climbing Photo: Summit decent anchor
Summit decent anchor

1st station in line from summit about 61m below at a small ledge

Rock Climbing Photo: 1st station
1st station

Station in line below the top of pitch 2

Rock Climbing Photo: Descent from pitch 2
Descent from pitch 2

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