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Up Until Sunrise S 

Up Until Sunrise 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brad Saren, Brian Shelton, Jason Carmichael, Kit Nordeen, Mark Tjaden, August '04
Page Views: 1,963
Submitted By: Erik Tullberg on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Josh leading Up Until Sunrise.

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>


There are two nice headwalls with the crux being at the second. This has really thin face climbing, it forces you to string together your moves. Mostly feet until the crux and then be prepared for some arm exercise... very crimpy.


This is the second from the left end of Solar Slab, to the right of the fabulous Solar Flare with its big, arching layback... and to the left of Tava.


7 (5?) bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. It is very well-protected in all the right places.

Photos of Up Until Sunrise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising the first tough section.  Photo by Bill O...
Cruising the first tough section. Photo by Bill O...

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By Stewart M. Green
Jul 15, 2008

Have you actually climbed this one? The current rating is 12a.
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 6, 2008

Actually, yes, I have climbed it... don't agree with the 12a. In fact, I'd say 11a. There's a tough pull just before the end, but no wild moves (unless that ear shaped foothold has broken off since last I climbed it 2 months ago). Besides, I can't climb 12a :)
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Bolt number 4 has the worst placement. It is right in the way of where you need to go. Cool route though. I couldn't lead climb any further anyhow. Perhaps with my new shoes?
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 1, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

There are actually only 5 protection bolts. This route has an exciting runout getting to the 2nd bolt. Very difficult face & friction moves past the upper 3 bolts. It seems to have gotten harder than when I climbed it over 6 years ago. A challenging slab.

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