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Up In Smoke 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,705
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015

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Colin working through the haze, during his 2nd asc...

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Description 

Up In Smoke is the rather eye catching dihedral to the right of Giggle Drops, and gets it's name from the stunning white water streaks on the wall, which resemble plumes of smoke rising into the air.

Start below and just to the right of the upper dihedral, on some less than enjoyable stone, to the right of a thick black streak.Thankfully, only a few scrappy moves delivers you into good rock and the steeper goods.

The first crux comes in the dihedral, and there are two ways of doing it. Either way you get through the dihedral crux, you will finally get to an adequate shake before the next crux. A little toe tapping technical mastery, and a few scruffy holds will lead you to some welcomed jugs. One last boulder problem guards the angle break. A great shake at the break let's you eye up the final thought provoking and exposed climbing to the hanging anchors.

Location 

Right of Giggle Drops, left of Be the Burn

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of Up In Smoke Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Colin drifting up with the currents.
Colin drifting up with the currents.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steele going for an RP
Steele going for an RP
Rock Climbing Photo: Up In Smoke.
BETA PHOTO: Up In Smoke.
Rock Climbing Photo: Colin getting into the fire on Up In smoke.
Colin getting into the fire on Up In smoke.
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ on Up In Smoke.
JJ on Up In Smoke.

Comments on Up In Smoke Add Comment
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By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 17, 2015

Want to add a bit more pump to this classic route? Hang a runner on the bolt above the bulge after the second crux (7th bolt i think). Traverse right from flat holds, clip the next bolt on Burning Point with another runner and finish up the pumpy overhang of Burning Point. A great linkup.

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