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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Up In Smoke 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kris Hjelle and Andy Petefish
Page Views: 690
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Sep 19, 2007

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very worthwhile route to do if in the area. It makes a great warm-up for one of the super classic W. Face routes. Nice face and arete moves on good rock.

Location 

Starts on a blunt arete just left of Jerry's Kids. Look for the bolts. At the fifth bolt traverse right across a slab and finish on Jerry's Kids using its last protection bolt. Finish out right on a nice ledge with a good anchor. We were able to rap back down on a single 70m.

Protection 

six good bolts on the route but you will also need TCU's and small to medium stoppers.


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By Jordan Collins 1
Sep 5, 2016

This route is much more of a "perfect warm up" than its route to the right Jerry's Kids. Starts out with amazing arete climbing, moving back and forth on the arete for 5 bolts. A super interesting climb with just enough spice at the top to keep things interesting. DO IT. And maybe if it was too easy, continue up avalon or brokedown palace.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Oct 24, 2016

Anchor replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16.