REI Community
Narcolepsy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anuresis T,TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 
Dream Slate T,TR 
Dreamscape S,TR 
Ethiopian Kid T 
Involuntary Release T,TR 
Mr. Sandman T,TR 
Narcolepsy T,TR 
Narcosis T,TR 
No Doze T 
Suture Fancy T,TR 
Turn Of The Sentry T 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 

Up A Cliff Without a Ladder 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1986
Page Views: 2,937
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 14, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
my bud whipping off of 'Up a Cliff W/O a Ladder'--...


This climb is just left of the twin chimney/crack system. Initially start up the crack "Chimney Sweep" to the right of the climb. Then make your move out of the crack onto the face in time to clip the 1st bolt. Continue up past thin crimps, and very awkward body moves. Clip the second bolt and puzzle out the sequence to the pin. The hands are terrible for a couple of moves. Get past the pin, place a piece, and make your move up the incredibly smooth face devoid of any help. Well any help is kind of strong, but damn!!! That upper face is so smooth, then when you think you got it licked, reach up for the ledge above the chains.... and scream "falling!!", cause that ledge ain't any help. Fun climb, but what a pump.


2 rap anchors at the top. 3 bolts + 1 piton are on the climb. Bring some trad gear. .75 cam worked well in the crack before the 1st bolt. There is a small nut "lost" after the 2nd bolt. It probably should be left alone as it is pretty set.

Photos of Up A Cliff Without a Ladder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bobby testing a piece with a rest midway up "...
Bobby testing a piece with a rest midway up "...
Rock Climbing Photo: so pretty...
so pretty...

Comments on Up A Cliff Without a Ladder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Gitlin
Jun 17, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Here's a route with a little of everything. The bottom 2/3 has some cool bouldery moves, with body position being key to utilize several of the holds. The top 15 feet totally changes character -- a smooth, vertical affair with only a few (THIN) holds. Kudos to the route setters for some very intelligent, positive protection.
By tenesmus
May 12, 2006

takes a tcu or two for that last face. I think I even equailzed a couple of them once. The footholds on the upper face are really cool.
By zoso
Jan 29, 2009

Used to be a gear anchor.
By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Sep 30, 2009

NOTE: as of September 2009 the pin midway up is gone. There is a good TCU placement near by that affords protection. As such, take 2-4 TCUs for protecting this area as well as the upper area that also requires a TCU.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 28, 2010

This route has certainly changed over the years. What used to be a gear-protected start is now gone, but a bolt or two have appeared and I think its actually a bit harder to read (and climb) than it once was. Worth repeating if you haven't done it in awhile.
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Sep 22, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very cool and interesting, not awkward at all if you read the rock correctly. Great gear where the pin used to be.
By baegerter
Oct 11, 2010

man, i would have been really smart to look at this site before i climbed this one...i felt good enough to climb with the pin and no gear but got up to where the pin used to be before i realized it wasn't becomes a pretty good runout between bolts...definitely bring gear...great climb though!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The chains are convenient but stopping there you miss the very cool top out moves, so if you want to do the original finish, clip the chains and bring a 1, 2, and 0.5 camalot to make a bomber anchor about 10 feet above them.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About