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Unsorted Routes:

Unusual Weather 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 3,846
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (123)
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One of THE TOP 10 for sure.


The middle of the Surreal Estate Wall hosts a striking line that fires up to a wide crack system at 60 ft, this is Unusual Weather, and for what it is worth, a better line in my mind than its harder cousin to the left. Very continuous climbing on pockets and edges takes you up to a horrizontal break. A traverse left gets you to a spot below the crack. Moderate climbing with some unexpected exposure (for the Shelf) gets you up the crack. I ususally find that if anything is cruxy on this route, it comes in the first 40 or 50 feet when the climbing picks up thin pockets and a few thin, flat inclusions. No single move is really 11c, so it may gain a notch or two for continuity to hit 11c. Don't be put off by the opening moves, big reaches for reasonable finger pockets will get you to a good jug pocket just below clip two, however, the opening feet are really marginal. For my style, I find that the best part of the climb lies in the first half dozen bolts. I wish that this excellent line were closer to home since Unusual Weather is well worth doing if you are in the neighborhood.


Nine to ten draws and a rope.

Per Bob-a: The route was climbed with just three bolts and some tricams in pockets on the FA.

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By Lyle Monzyk
Jan 8, 2002

This climb deserves three stars, it is excellent. The opening move is a hard mantle then it is Shelf climbing at its best with great pockets, and fun edging. There seems to be a mini-crux at the upper crack that is thin and powerful.
By Will Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2007

This is one of the best routes, regardless of the grade, at Shelf Road. For whats is worth, I felt this to be a much better route than its close neighbor Back to the Future. The climbing on Unsual Weather allows for fluid movement up pockets and crimps with a variety of places to shake out. There is also about 15 feet of run-out 5.9 crack climbing to the anchors thrown in for good measure. Additionally, the Surreal Estate Wall has to be one of the most aesthetically pleasing cliffs out here and stays shady until around lunch.
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Dec 31, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

High quality route on nice wall. Continuous movement up an ever steepening wall with a couple rests. One of the best routes at the bank. Would be a good warm-up for Heavy Weather.
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 17, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

With Heavy Weather, Staying Power, and Thunder Tactics all in a row, this section of the Bank is 11c heaven! I find it really hard to beat the Bank for density of quality routes in the 11 and 12 range.
By dancesatmoonrise
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Classic. One of the best.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Nov 4, 2013

Got shut down on the onsight 6 bolts up below the crack but daaammnnn fine line. A must do.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Oct 28, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I did this in 1996 as part of one of my favorite endurance days, climbing 15 routes between .11a and .12c at the Bank. This was the last route, most were OS, and I was sure that I was going to take a huge whip off the last exit move on the crack going for the anchor. Positive lieback holds on 5.9 is easy, but don't let it fool you, you are going to take a 30+ foot fall if you blow this...more if you have slack out clipping :) Enjoy!
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Feb 18, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Ric Geiman - Unusual Weather.  Photo by Dan Heiden...
Ric Geiman - Unusual Weather.

Photo by Dan Heidenreich, 1988,
from Mark Van Horn & Sally Moser's
Rock & Ice Guide, issue #26
(the first Shelf Road topos).

An amazing photo lost to history. Ric could do this route blind-folded!

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