REI Community
The West Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cracken, The 
Spiderman's Traverse 
Untitled Lead S,TR 

Untitled Lead 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Nick Biederman on Nov 16, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Untitled lead on the west wall

Description 

Mostly crimpy holds, but there's a nice large square brick shortly after the first clip and an odd I shaped brick right before the last move that are nice and juggy. The top cap of the wall has 2 great holds to finish on as you transition to a top out or the fence to set an anchor. Some of the lower holds are a bit polished, but after after the first few feet they're good and rough.

Location 

Located on the west wall shortly before woods wall. Walk east from the parking lot to where the grass field gives way to a less well grooomed field, and look about 10 feet up for the first bolt. It's slightly left of the fourth pillar, first fence section.

Protection 

2 quickdraws, plus 2 slings and a biner for a top anchor. There's a bomber fence that's easy to anchor to at the top. Bring something to protect your slings as they'll rubbing on the edge.


Comments on Untitled Lead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Grant Eaton
Nov 28, 2016

Hey Nick! Thanks for sharing.
Is this the same route? If you cant add a photo, let me know and I'll add one next time I visit.
By Nick Biederman
Nov 30, 2016

Hey Grant,

I'm tempted to say the route you linked is a different one. As you walk towards woods wall, there's 2 sets of bolts, one right by the woods and this one a little closer to the parking lot. The route closer to the woods looks older as the bolts and hangers don't seem to be in great condition. Next time I'm out there (hopefully this afternoon) I'll be sure to get a picture. I'll add the other route as well once I get a chance to climb it.
By Grant Eaton
Dec 2, 2016

Great, thanks. Sounds good. We should get these bolted routes up on the project. I cant believe someone came, bolted them, then didn't even add them to the two major databases online. In one sense i respect the hell out of it, in the other sense, it doesn't make any sense haha.
By DrRockso
From: Red River Gorge, KY
May 24, 2017

Grant, these routes were bolted before mountain project was even a thing...
By Grant Eaton
Jun 5, 2017

Dr.Rockso, the bolts look pretty recent, are they really that new? Either way, makes sense if they have been there a while, then. They just seemed fairly recent.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About