Until Death Do Us Part
||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
|Original: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]|
|FA: ||T. Bubb, J. Haas, 8/29/2015 (TR only as of writing)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces South, gets early AM shade.|
|Page Views: ||93|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Aug 30, 2015|
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This is a somewhat more direct and singular line than Superdeath
but less protected and a little harder.
Start on the right side of the arete opposite the route Superdeath
. Climb an incipient crack/seam to the bulge/roof. Place a hand-sized cam or more gear here, then cut left (first crux) onto the arete at that point for the green and yellow Alien placements, then go back right (second crux) onto the face that was started on to finish within arms length of the arete such that the top bolt (ring) can be reached (3rd crux, thin).
This route ascends the RIGHT side of the same arete as Superdeath
, which is on the left.
It could be marginally protected with a small to medium nut, a hands-to-thin-hands cam at the roof, then a green and yellow Alien, then runout to the single bolt anchor on the prow, then up to the trad belay (nuts and a cam). Perhaps someone else will find more gear. It is probably best TR'd unless it is brushed clean first.