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Grotto Right (West Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
666 S 
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 
Class Act S 
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 
Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a. UNA) S 
Dopesmoker S 
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 
In the Court of the Crimson King S 
Rickety Rock S 
Ruffles Have Ridges T 
Sin after Sin S 
Tenable S 
Trailer Park Girls S 
Tweak Fuck  S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 
Untenable S 
Venarete S 
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 
Where the World Ends T,S 
Winter Capacity S 
Winter Warm-up T 
Woogie's Wild Ride S 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2009
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 26, 2010

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Clipped to the anchors and taking in the amazing v...


Another fun new climb in the Upper Grotto. Thanks Vaino and Jen!

The first half of the climb consists of (mostly) 5.8 climbing on a super positive, low angle arete, ending on a ledge.

At this point, things get interesting. Make a few tricky moves to get established on the arete. Thin, technical arete climbing (crux) guards the ninth clip, but it is easy to go for it as you are never high above the last bolt. From here, a few casual moves lead to the anchor.


"Untenable" is on the same formation as "Where the Wild Things Aren't", "Tweak Fuck" etc:

On the upper right side of the Grotto, walk past "Tweak Fuck" and its neighboring "Unnamed Arete" climb. Scramble around the corner on blocks, and look to your right to find "Untenable".


10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rap rings.

Tightly bolted: you can backclean a few bolts, but you probably don't want to try it in the middle of the crux.

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By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Mar 26, 2010

This climb gets late afternoon sun, at least in Spring.

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