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The Dungeon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5000 Candles in the Wind T 
Backdoor Man S 
Branching Out S 
Executioner, The T 
Implements of Destruction T 
New Beginnings  T 
Number of the Beast, The S 
Rat Dance T 
Ride Around the Block T 
Soaked in Sin T 
Tanuki T 
Uncertainty Principle , The T 
Unshackled S 
Zed's Dead T 

Unshackled 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Montgomery and Kevin Stricker, Summer of 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Monty on Aug 27, 2016

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Jay getting into the goods.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the first route left of the big overhang in the upper part of the Dungeon. The movement on this route is great, but the bottom half is still quite lichenous. Nevertheless, the climbing on the upper headwall is awesome!

Carefully climb up to the first bolt, then continue onward through an overhang. Clipping the 5th bolt with a shoulder length sling will greatly reduce drag. Continue up surprisingly steep jugs to a mantel move onto a sloping stance. Tech your way up the dihedral, and enjoy the gator skin finale.

Location 

This is the first route left of the big overhang in the upper part of the Dungeon.

Protection 

14 bolts to an anchor. A 60m rope is required (knot the ends!).


Photos of Unshackled Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Alie on the beautiful upper headwall.
Dave Alie on the beautiful upper headwall.

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