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Unpretentious Simplicity
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Headwall
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Baraka T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Just The Tip T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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L'Eroica S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Learning to Share S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Motivation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unpretentious Simplicity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mike Schneiter and Scott Nykerk |
| Page Views: | 640 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Apr 30, 2016 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a super classic pitch.
Easy face climbing past three bolts leads to a series of two mantles protected by bolts before reaching a good-sized ledge below the stunning, overhanging headwall proper. Move right after the second mantel (5th bolt) to a crack that cuts through the face going up and left. Use a long sling on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag. Plug in a #1 Camalot to protect the first moves before clipping a couple of closely spaced bolts before firing straight up on great rock with beautiful holds and movement. Finish by angling left and doing a mantel into a little alcove and on to a ledge with a two bolt anchor (there is a second two-bolt anchor to the left).
Easy face climbing past three bolts leads to a series of two mantles protected by bolts before reaching a good-sized ledge below the stunning, overhanging headwall proper. Move right after the second mantel (5th bolt) to a crack that cuts through the face going up and left. Use a long sling on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag. Plug in a #1 Camalot to protect the first moves before clipping a couple of closely spaced bolts before firing straight up on great rock with beautiful holds and movement. Finish by angling left and doing a mantel into a little alcove and on to a ledge with a two bolt anchor (there is a second two-bolt anchor to the left).
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