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Unpretentious Simplicity 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter and Scott Nykerk
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 30, 2016

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Description 

This is a super classic pitch.

Easy face climbing past three bolts leads to a series of two mantles protected by bolts before reaching a good-sized ledge below the stunning, overhanging headwall proper. Move right after the second mantel (5th bolt) to a crack that cuts through the face going up and left. Use a long sling on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag. Plug in a #1 Camalot to protect the first moves before clipping a couple of closely spaced bolts before firing straight up on great rock with beautiful holds and movement. Finish by angling left and doing a mantel into a little alcove and on to a ledge with a two bolt anchor (there is a second two-bolt anchor to the left).

Location 

The center bolted line on the Headwall currently.

Protection 

10 bolts and #1 Camalot which is somewhat optional. A strong climber could probably do without.


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