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Beastie Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Danger Mouse S 
Fake-P, The T 
Inner Sanctum S 
Jaws S 
Lichen to Liken T 
Pony Express T,S 
Rusty-P, The T 
Thunder Toad S 
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 
Unnamed T,S 
Unnamed Fissure T 
Unnatural Attraction S 

Unnatural Attraction 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jay Foley, circa 1993
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Jul 15, 2007

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Micah on Unnatural Attraction

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>


Oscillate wildly between bolts, following the holds to the top. Up and left to the anchors.


The first bolted line on the south side of Beastie Alley. Rappel (or lower) from shared anchors with Pony Express (5.9).


5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Additional gear placements can be found, but are probably not necessary.

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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jul 18, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You can stay left of the bolts and not stem at the beginning of this route, which makes it supposedly 5.11.
By Mark Mathis
Jul 22, 2007

I've incremented the bolt count to 5 in the description.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 7, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

While not necessary, a cam or two up high seems like it would be appreciated.
By Jfoley
Feb 8, 2009

Correct George. I climbed the FA of this route without steming, climbing directissima staying left of the bolts circa 1993. I thought the bouldery start to this variation was about 11c. I was searching for harder steeper shaded routes in TP at the time. The second time I led it I realized you could stem and zig zag between bolts at about 5.10a and felt a bit silly for not seeing it the first time. Funny how we only see what we are looking for sometimes.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jul 11, 2009

I was initially confused by this location description. I guess it's the first bolted line you find on the right side of the Alley when you're walking in (not on the outside of the alley, by PE). It has a partially installed anchor at the 5th bolt at about 40-45 feet (there's an empty, open hole that was drilled 8 inches to the right of B5, and has a sleeve inside but no bolt; the 5th bolt itself currently has a brown-painted screwgate on it). ~10a/b -- w/o stemming. It has a lame runout scramble to the left at the top to get to the PE anchor.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jul 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You were on the correct climb, Chris. This is the 1st bolted climb on the right side after you enter the Alley.

I'd recommend continuing to the anchor shared with Pony Express, rather than lower off of a single bolt [which, as of 7/19, no longer has a quick-link or leaver biner]. This finish is run out, but easy, or bring a couple pieces of gear.
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Interesting stemming at the start. I is probably a good idea to place some pro at the end for your second, since the anchor is a bit far to the left.
By Paul Hassett
From: Aurora CO
Nov 14, 2016

For those of you who would like to take gear before the run to the anchors, a 1 inch alien fit like a glove to protect the moves into the slot. Could likely get in a yellow as well or instead of, but otherwise that is roughly the size you need. Just FYI so you don't have to carry up multiple pieces.

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