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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]
FA: ca. 2012
Season: May - Oct
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 10, 2014

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Description 

Climb up slab, heading to the oak tree for a belay. Originally, the first belay was at a small pine tree growing at the base of the headwall, but this tree is now dead.
Climb up to the dead pine tree and through the short headwall behind it, using cracks in a shallow concave section of the slab above. Move onto the blunt outer corner and continue upward along the edge of a steeper slope to the right. There is no gear for about 80' on this section.
Continue up the ill-defined nose, passing right of a spruce tree partially blocking the way, and up one final patch of low-angle slab to a small, open stance.

Location 

This route originally began on patches of low-angle slab winding upward through the woods, particularly a low-angle slab broken in two with a very wide crack in it. There are several sloping ledges which can be used to begin climbing. The first large swathe of rock is unprotected, easy slab leading to an oak tree near the right edge of the main slab.
Descend by rappelling off trees. One can also walk up and right, crossing several other sections of slab, to reach the gully beside the Bella Vista slab; then descending that gully.

Protection 

There is adequate protection for the crux moves, but extremely long runouts on 5.4ish friction.


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