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East Wall
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East Wall T 
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Line, The T 
Out to Lunge T 
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Preparation H T 
Psychedelic Direct T 
Psychedelic Tree T 
Scimitar T 
Showtime T 
Unnamed T,S 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,240
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This fun low angle face climb starts on the far right side of the East Wall. The first bolt is 20ft up, but it is only 5.6 to that point. Follow a handful of well spaced bolts to the crack above. Fun lieback moves will get you to the anchor.

There is good gear on this climb, but it is well spaced to keep you on your toes. Probably not best climb for your first 5.10.


Located about 20ft to the right of the Psychedelic Tree. It is the last bolted climb on the far right side of the East Wall.


A few large nuts, and a single set of cams to #1 camalot

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By TinCrow
From: Ca
Jul 4, 2009

Nice route.Starts with four bolts, then I used #o-1(c3) for the first gear placement out left midway between bolt and first large roof/block. Then a couple more (Camalot c4).5-3.5 will protect the upper section well.
Fun to toprope Left side corner and face although they are a bit dirty.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Sep 30, 2010

Good lead, bolts near the hard spots and lots of varied climbing; face down low and crack/corner up high. Pretty clean for probably not getting much traffic.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 18, 2011

Didn't care for this route. Easy dike hikeing (5.8 tops) down low and into a funky short corner with tons of feet. Maybe one move of .10a and the rest much easier. Think I just used draws and a #1 C4 which protected the route well.
By Aaron Hwang
Sep 15, 2015

The 4 bolts appear to be 1/4" button head bolts when I climbed it 9/13/2015. Can someone please verify this? The c3 placement didn't seem to be very obvious. I couldn't find any gear until I reached the giant flake above. Falling before placing gear in that giant flake could potentially ground the leader.

I rapped with a 60m rope and had to stand on a block and untie before reaching the ground.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 16, 2015

They are 3/8" rivets far as I remember. It takes the hand of god to remove those things.
By Connor Newman
From: Reno, NV
Sep 11, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I thought that the first looked like a 3/8", but after that they certainly looked like 1/4" to me.
By Kevin Clark 1
From: Oakland
May 22, 2017

Definitely enjoyed this route. Placed a 3 and a 2 on the crack because I am noob. The final move had me going from an off width to a mantle-to-face transfer. It was epic!
By Jonas MacDonald
Sep 2, 2017

They all looked like 3/8" to me. I was on this route 9/1/17

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