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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 2,280
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Gets a little wide at the top.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This takes a right-facing corner just left of The Monk. The corner has a step in it half way up. Slightly loose and a bit of thrutching near the top.


Mostly hands, some fist-size pieces too.

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Rock Climbing Photo: This climb is mostly hands size but near the top i...
This climb is mostly hands size but near the top i...

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By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Our rack: 1 #1 (to back up double pin anchor for TR), 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #4, 1 #4.5, 1 #5 Probably overkill, but you won't have to walk anything. Beta hint: layback the wide sections.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

Cool route. First section is similar to Amaretto Corner P1 on Supercrack. If the biggest piece yo take is a #4 C4 then yo could hit the ledge if you blow the moves at the top wide section. Although probably completely unnecessary I took a #5 and a #6 and was happy to have them up high. CL
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Had fun on this one. Was told hands to wide hands. For the most part, this is pretty accurate, lots of blues and yellows. Then it got wider... And wider. My single #4 made the end pretty spicy. Bring a 5 and, if you have it, an extra 4.

Pretty great climb, though. Didn't wear a shirt and my shoulder and back got pretty thrashed on the end. Long and good climb.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Guide book is way off on this one (bloom 1st edition) it calls for one #4. To properly protect you would need a 4, 5, and 6 or you risk a fall onto a ledge 60ish feet up. Would have been better with the proper gear.
By Ryan Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I whipped on the sandy offwidth a few months back. Almost decked. Scary shit. Lay back this thing and bring a #6
By Jake Dickerson
From: Lander, WY
Nov 29, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I agree with the previous comments. I found the top to be really sandy and hard to get my body in. I would take at least a 4,5 and a 6.
By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Nov 1, 2016

The Bloom IC guide has the gear listed wrong - the #3's are listed twice and there is no mention of a #6. This route has a few spots wider than a #4 - we found 2 #5's handy and a #6 at the very top seemed a requirement for me - was glad we had one.

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