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unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 

unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 3,985
Submitted By: Joe Gartner on Jan 20, 2002

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Jonas Wiklund placing gear high up.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock. It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs. It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands. Its long, pumpy and awesome. It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.

(Per claramie's 2008 description for gold crown) " #7 in the bloom book. Didn't look 120' from the ground to me. Start in a right facing .75 to 1 crack up through a roof and change corners. Pause for a rest in the pod. Continue up through another roof and into the offwidth (work the frog step). Power through one last section and keep your cool when you try to clip the anchors. Absolutely AWESOME route!!"


Mostly #2 Camalots with a few #1 and some smaller stuff for the lieback start

(per claramie's 2008 entry for gold crown) "The bloom book is good. Keep a .75 and a 1 for up higher."

Photos of unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mal, making it look easy.
Mal, making it look easy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gold Crown as seen from the chimney nearby
Gold Crown as seen from the chimney nearby
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful unamed corner.  Great climbing the w...
The beautiful unamed corner. Great climbing the w...

Comments on unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 21, 2017
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

don't miss this one!
By Steve McCorkel
Mar 28, 2006

However, regarding the grade, this route does have a crux. 5.11a
By Roger Linfield
Feb 27, 2007

I agree with the 5.11a rating, even though it is hand size most of the way. I used mostly #2.5 and #3 friends (11 total).
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Awesome climb to photograph from 50 meters to the right, at the base of the short 11- and 10+. YOu catch the climber at the crux looking like he's on an arete.
Great route, crux up top is 11- and you are pumped.
By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 12, 2007

Yeah, the hardest parts are the start and the end of this fantastic crack, obviously. Not the perfect hand 5.10 that make up most of this route. 5.11- is fair isn't it?
By wilcox510
Oct 20, 2008

I'd call this 5.11-. I put a few blue camalots in, and I also placed a 4 camalot in the wide slot (you could put something smaller in the back of the slot). Fairly pumpy and physical. Really fun.
By Devan Johnson
Nov 27, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Possibly the best route at the creek. Seriously.

The sections between perfect hands are short, but the length of this beauty pushes it into 5.11 territory. 70m makes it to the ground just fine.
By Zeke6
From: Akron, Ohio
Jun 29, 2011

My favorite route I did in the all 1.5 months in the creek! Devan is correct about the 70m.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Jan 23, 2012

This climb now has a plaque that says "Gold Crown"
By Timmamok Murphy
From: Durango, CO
Jan 27, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Who decided to go and name this?

It was the best unnamed climb in the creek. Now its just another 4 star hand crack with a name.
By Phill T
Apr 1, 2012

deserves a name, and golden crown fits perfectly for all the golden camalots! Perfect but thoughtful hands through roofs, dihedral switches, a sweet knee lock no hands rest. pure awesome.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I think this is the same route as "unnamed 10+"?
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Mar 30, 2013

There was no plaque on this back in late November.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Ok so it is time to merge this one with Unnamed 11-. The real name of this route????? Who knows, it has always been called Unnamed 5.11- in my book......

All that IS irrelevant as the two routes are the same.......

So MP lets not have duplicate routes on here!!!!! I am sure someone knows if this was named way back when or if Gold Crown is some new thing.....
By Moritz B.
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Don´t do it like the guy in the picture and place a cam right in the roof because the rope will push that cam super deep into the crack. Happens everyday. Be warned. It´s better to place a gold cam with a sling underneath the roof and the next cam a bit above the roof.
By Rob Dillon
Apr 27, 2016

SC bolt up top...Steve Carruthers?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 21, 2017

Great route with lots of rests. But to you folks that claim "70m makes it to the ground just fine", i'd like to clarify that it makes it to about 10 feet from the ground, though easy enough to downclimb the flakes.

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