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Beauty and the Beast T 
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No Beggin' T 
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Piano, The T 
Salmon Run T 
Skid Row T 
Strike and Dip T 
Third World Lover T 
Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 
Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble T 
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Wrasse T 

Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Season: any
Page Views: 3,174
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 2, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Not the greatest action shot in the world....but a...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


A great climb. According to Bloom, this is one of the best unnamed climbs in the creek.
Start in the thin corner and power up on fingers to a good jam up and left in a pod of the neighboring crack, perhaps 8 meters. then climb thin hands for about 8 more meters to good stems and opposition moves for rest. Pass another move or two to reach better jams and a widening crack to go to the anchors.


This climb is in a large right facing corner between Fletcher and Whale's Back on the Fin. A crack left of the start at the base but just out of reach comes closer as you go up. Toward the top, a thin crack appears to the right of the corner.


A few thin cams at the bottom, .5 to .75, then a lot of 1.5-2" gear before a few each of 2.5 and 3".

Photos of Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb follows the unnamed 5.11+ corner on the ...
Tony Bubb follows the unnamed 5.11+ corner on the ...

Comments on Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Apr 13, 2006

Is this the one right of Nagasaki and left of Double Trouble?
If so, I thought it was excellent. Hong bolt on top-- maybe it used to have a name?

(Whale's Back is up Cottonwood Creek somewhere left of 4x4)
By chris Kalous
Dec 12, 2006

This route route got a new anchor in Nov 2006 courtesy of Climbing Magazine's ARI program.
By Dpurf
From: Superior
May 3, 2007

Whale's back is on Technicolor wall and it is a good one.
By m-earle
From: USA
Nov 5, 2007

I climbed this thinking it was "double trouble." Definitely worth doing.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 25, 2008

Opening moves were harder than they seemed on first inspection. Very sustained until you reach the handjams up high. Harder than Double Trouble.
By Rich Aschert
Mar 18, 2012

The plaque at the base says "The Last Day" also its a pile of rubble getting to the start of the climb, i.e. watch out for cutting boulders loose on those below.
By Gary Savage
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 28, 2016

A couple of .3's will protect the initial tips lie back, which seemed pretty hard for the 5.11 rating in the Bloom guidebook. 11+ seems more accurate and the climbing remains very sustained until you get to the hands near the very top.
By khoa
From: Tacomarado
Apr 12, 2016

Fa: Steve Hong

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