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Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gene Kistler, Howard Clark 80's
Season: Any
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Apr 18, 2017

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  • Description 

    Fun steep face climbing leads to a fun corner up high. If it weren't for the dirtiness, this would be a classic. Despite the grunge, it is well worth the effort.

    Start at a thin flake leaning against the wall with a bolt not too far above. Climb to the bolt and continue up, eventually trending left to the ledge below the dihedral. Get some gear deep in the crack and punch it through the boulder problem. Some good stances and great stemming leads you up the corner. Once the corner ends at a bulge, reach right to get the anchors.

    The first bolt isn't necessary since there are horizontal slots that would take adequate small gear. It does make it easier to find the start of the climb.

    Location 

    Look for the obvious right facing dihedral about half way up the climb. The route is in between A Dry Soprano Circle and an unnamed 12a.

    Protection 

    Nuts and cams from small to #2 camalot. Bring extra finger sized if you plan to skip the bolt. Long slings are mandatory for the traverse over to the corner. Rappel with a 60m from anchors at the top.


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