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Rediscovery Dome Left
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Bataphobia S 
Cheers and Jeers  S 
Dancing With The Devil S 
Inferno S 
Old Cranks T 
Shangri-La S 
Thin Air  T 
Todd Vogel route aka "Arrow to your Heart" T 

Old Cranks 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Tuttle, Todd Vogel and Norman Boles 1978.
Page Views: 235
Submitted By: Brad J on Jul 26, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Old Cranks line up the left side of Rediscovery Do...

Description 

This is the far left crack climb. It is 5.8 or so. Easy and straight forward but good for working your trad skills. Standard rack with nuts and mid to smaller cams.

Location 

Follow the marked trail to the base. This is the climb on the far left. Use the ramp to get to base of climb.

Protection 

Bolted Chain Anchor


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By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Nov 5, 2016

Route name is "Old Cranks" FA John Tuttle, Todd Vogel and Norman Boles 1978.

ps. Did the route today 9/23/17 with EricL and had a really good time. Route eats wired nuts (consider doubles) and small cams. One 5.7/8 lieback move but generally straightforward with good stances to place gear (nice job EricL). One fixed Leeper pin that we left years ago behind a small flake...probably not to be relied upon after nearly 40 years :).

You can easily traverse to the last bolts on Inferno from the final anchor of Old Cranks and cruise up to that anchor if you would like to top rope nearby climbs. Some straightforward 5.6 face with 2 bolts, well protected.

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