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Unnamed Sweet Splitter pitch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Jay Bach on Nov 30, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Here's the crack from the base.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a sweet pitch my partner and I stumbled upon while walking back from Fun Ramp.

The route starts with a perfect .75 C4 tight hands splitter that quickly widens to a #1, then up to #2. After 20 feet or so the crack ends at a little ledge. Above that are a thin seam on the left that can occasionally take small gear, and a larger, jagged, broken crack that varies from #4 C4 to #5. This is topped by a small roof split by two wide cracks, and two new bolts above that. Watch for loose blocks and debris at the top.

The route takes great gear, the wide crack is deep enough to sink an arm in, and little edges to stand on abound. It's an awesome moderate route, and could continue up and left to a second pitch if someone wanted to add another anchor.

Location 

Wish I could give better beta here, but we found it on the return trip. Roughly 1/2 mile from the Moab Canyon Pathway bridge, across from a campground - Possibly Goose Island.

Protection 

A double rack from .5 - 4 and one #5 works fine. Adding a third #4 would mean you wouldn't have to bump. Stronger climbers will need less, of course.


Photos of Unnamed Sweet Splitter pitch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's the crack. It starts behind the obvious roc...
Here's the crack. It starts behind the obvious roc...

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