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Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George Bracksieck and Beverly Bien, 1994?
Page Views: 3,267
Submitted By: PATRICK THOMPSON on Jul 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Steve T. taking a look at the upper section of Doc...

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  • Description 

    This is a good beginner route.


    This was put up ground up.

    Eds. It was retrobolted, probably unknowingly. The last two bolts are too close. You need small wires and #0 TCU for start, then clip 4 or 5 bolts to top anchors. The route starts 10 feet left of Sunset Arete.

    Photos of Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Doc's Route.
    Start of Doc's Route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Earle on Doc's Route.
    Dave Earle on Doc's Route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the first bolt.
    At the first bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Thomas leading Doc's Route.
    Steve Thomas leading Doc's Route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Below the first bolt.
    Below the first bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: John Jennings.
    John Jennings.

    Comments on Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2015
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Jul 18, 2002

    Good beginner route? Ha! The start is the best part, but the tiny cam stuck in the undercling (I eshewed the RPs in the cracks to that point) at the 5.7 crux is a couple feet below you, and I wouldn't want to fall on it. It was actually kind-of fun, but we were kidding each other that we were in England, on Gritstone, climbing at the crux above marginal gear. Not a really good beginner route.
    By Ray Snead
    Sep 5, 2002

    This is described as located left of "Sunset Arete"... is this the same as "Arete", which is left of the classic finger crack?

    I saw some bolts here - the first one is high, and the route continues up low angle rock and a sort of a headwall. In semi-darkness it looked dicy to get to the first bolt.
    By Dmitriy Zinchenko
    Sep 11, 2002

    The crux 5.7 protects with a single #7 stopper at about eye level. Clip a single biner to this, and then clip the bolt once you're through. If that nut pulls out later, who cares? The other partially cruxy section is after the ledge, but the bolts here protect you real well. Maybe not such a great beginner route, since the start can be freaky.

    I saw two guys trying this route in hiking boots and a 2-foot runner on that #7 stopper. You can imagine how far they got. Plus, that nut placement got stuck, and they walked around to rappel down to get it. Ha! Don't do this. You really have to rappel this route from top. Otherwise, you're in for some vertical bushwaking w/no belay. If you really wan't to, you can set up a belay/rap at the ledge with a bolt and a #2 Camalot, or something weird like that.
    By steve dieckhoff
    Sep 11, 2002

    I applaud the 'ground-up' style (very reasonable on this terrain) and can easily understand the qualms about this being a 'beginner route'; however, the use of clean protection at the bottom shouldn't preclude 5.7 leaders from trying this. There are two placements possible to protect the initial section, and while neither is ideal, it should be quite easy to climb back to the ground to test them if you are having any doubts about pulling past them. This is a good habit to adopt - beginner or not. (I led it w/o clipping the bolts, since the first couple also offer nut placements and the climbing is about 5.2 anyway....the last 2 bolts seem warranted though.)
    By Tonya Clement
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 31, 2003

    We climbed this route yesterday...after trudging through four feet of snow to get to the base. Gosh, do I sound like my grandpa telling stories of walking to school in the old days?

    Here is my two cents on this hubby is a "beginner leader"....this was his second lead and he cruised he is 6' tall and has been climbing for three years. After he led it, he pulled the rope, and it fell leaving the first bolt clipped so I could lead with little/no risk of hitting the ground should I fall off doing the initial crux move. This is my second year of leading, and I am 5'2". I was thrilled to have the rope running through the first bolt given the ground rush potential. I agree....there was protection had I chosen to place a piece before the bolt. I actually found this section to be easy (of course - I had no risk) was the upper crux where the two bolts are close that I found to be the hardest is protected but a fall before the second bolt would result in hitting the is a couple of dicey moves and very thin.

    Beginner route....the verdict is still out....I vote "no."
    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Sep 23, 2003

    Only a good beginner lead if the first bolt is clipped as Tonya mentioned. This was my girlfriend's first lead (sport or trad), and she's been on Supercrack Buttress with me in IC. She follows 10a trad and didn't feel comfortable clipping the first bolt. Be advised.~Wm
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 22, 2003

    I think this is a good beginner lead, depending upon what you lead. If one is just breaking into 5.7, probably not! The first bolt is high up, I did the aforementioned small cam in the undercling, I felt it was solid and did not worry going for the bolt. You gotta admit, it is 5.7, no harder. The second crux is not thin really, just have to spend a minute figuring it out. I think it's great to have a quick warmup climb before hitting other stuff on the crag!
    By Baumer
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 21, 2010
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    If you have some bouldering experience, it's an easy enough lead to do with no pro to the first bolt.
    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 9, 2010

    Not the greatest route. The start is the best part of the route and the pro is reasonable if you are confortable with trad climbing. I put in a small cam in a horizontal crack low down and the nut in the undercling. Both were good placements. So, as a 5.7 trad route, it's fine but unsustained.

    As a sport climb, this sucks. Once you get to the first bolt, you walk past three more to the ledge. Then there is one way too low and two above where the climbing gets fun again. So, basically there are three reasonable bolts on the thing. Would it have killed them to put one bolt down low? I guess I understand not putting bolts next to gear placements, but I think it's lousy how many grid bolted climbs have a highball boulder start, as if it's some kind of ego thing. This is clearly a beginner climb, so trade one of the plentiful bolts on the 5.0 ramp for one down low and you have a safe, beginner route.
    By Sarah Meiser
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    May 26, 2011

    As a fledgling 7 trad and 8 sport leader, I got freaked below the 1st bolt. The #7 stopper placement looked a bit iffy. Backed off and spotted a nice little crack from the ground. Double zero C3 saved the day, I hung on that puppy to test it... beautiful! Absolute comfort cruise from there.
    By Yair Horowitz
    Aug 12, 2011

    There are a bunch of large loose rocks near the ledge around 4/5ths of the way up. I removed a few of the melon-size rocks that were ready to knock out a belayer, but there are still some sketchy pieces up there. Be careful and you'll be fine.

    Note: Most of this route can be toproped by walking out onto the ledge referenced above. Anchor yourself to the easily accessible bolt for safety, and use the large boulder in combination with the bolt to build your toprope anchor.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Apr 4, 2013

    I placed two small cams near the bottom, and it seemed perfectly safe to me.
    By Sean Brady
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Apr 14, 2013

    A beginner will have trouble finding the protection placements below the first bolt.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 10, 2015
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Lots of scrambling in between 2 sections that make that up. While not a total bomb, there are reasons why people bolted a lot around there but not this one.
    I more or less lead/bouldered/soloed everything around there in 2001 and never thought it was worthy of mention or attention. This line does protect on a few small cams low down prior to bolt #1. Here is the question - isn't that about all the protection you need? If you can do that, the rest is a cake walk.
    By George Bracksieck
    Jul 8, 2015

    In 1994, I led Beverly Bien up this route. There were no bolts.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jul 8, 2015

    George, did you and Beverly name it?
    By Greg Barnes
    Oct 26, 2015

    The pro before the first bolt is unlikely to hold due to rock quality. As is, it's just dumb, it either should have a bolt at the start, or just remove them all and return it to the original state....

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