REI Community
Broken Tooth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Dynamic Dentistry T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Insoluble T 
Low Fang S 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Novacaine T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Phantom Pinnacle T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 

Midnight Oil 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA Jim Howe, Keith Maas. Early 1990's.
Season: Gets late afternoon sun
Page Views: 995
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
jack burning the oil

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


A fun climb with an early crux (have the green camalot ready) and then a pump crux up top if you don't move quickly. Climb the initial thin crack up to a pretty good hold, protect high, but with a sling, traverse left on funky moves to gain the open book to the left and then layback up the good flake. to the anchors. It get easier as you go.

(Per Steven Lucarelli's description on 10/21/09) - "This route climbs a short splitter to a traverse left (crux?) and a small rest stance. Layback and jam the final right facing corner to the anchor."


A few feet left of Blue Sky Mining...
As you head left past the popular unnamed 11- handcrack (entered as 10+ on this site) you will come around a corner past a tree and see 2 short climbs, a 10+ on the right (Blue Sky Mining) in a primarily right facing corner, and an 11- route (Unnamed) switching from a crack on the right to a crack on the left at a horizontal 20' up.


From very thin hands up to thin hands until the traverse, then thin hands down to thin fingers at the top. 1 cams each .75", 2.5", 1" 2 cams each 1.5", 2". will sew it up.

(Per Steven Lucarelli's gear recommendation on 10/21/09) - ".4 friend to #4 Camalot, 1 each."

Photos of Midnight Oil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: jon at the anchors
jon at the anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: big jon moving up
big jon moving up

Comments on Midnight Oil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

FA Jim Howe, Keith Maas.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 6, 2013

A good onsight rack would be 3 #1s 3 #.75s 2 #.5s and a .4 C4. Don't bring anything bigger that a Red camelot.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Yep this is most definitely Midnight Oil!!!!!
By slim
Nov 11, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

i merged steven lucarelli's 10/21/09 route entry into tony's route entry for midnight oil. hopefully this helps.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About