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Unnamed Mixed Route 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,434
Submitted By: Christian on Dec 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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BETA PHOTO: Ryan Dillon leading a crack to the right of Commun...


5.9 layback crack then bolted face up top. Face is probably 10a if you go right for a rest and 10b if you go straight up.


Crack + face directly to the right of "Community Service". Route #4 on the topo on the main page.


Nuts & Cams for bottom crack & start of top section, then bolts.

Photos of Unnamed Mixed Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9 crack to the right of Community Service.  This...
5.9 crack to the right of Community Service. This...
Rock Climbing Photo: The fun of doing it with hexes!
The fun of doing it with hexes!
Rock Climbing Photo: gear

Comments on Unnamed Mixed Route Add Comment
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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 25, 2007

Maybe one of the admins can move or copy Josh's pic of this route from the main page to this page.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Apr 21, 2008

The move off of the ledge is protected by a crack going through very soft rock. It is probably a good idea to bring a couple cams in the .75 camalot range and equalize them before committing to the .9ish move.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 16, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

sweet crack. i wish it was longer.
By David Lammers
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 4, 2010

The largest piece that the crack can take is a #2 BD cam in a pocket near the top of the crack. Leave anything larger in your car and save the weight if this is the only mixed route you do.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 28, 2014

Since this climb is popular w beginning trad leaders and I'm pretty sure the first piece is a stopper (for whatever reason, it's hard to get a cam in the same spot), a word of advice: Don't allow your belayer to stand 10 feet back from the wall when belaying on this.

The further out he/she stands, the greater the chance of bottom-up zippering that first piece if you fall after placing a second piece, at which point you'll be relying on one piece to keep you off the ground.

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