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Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 
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Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: AndyJohnson on Jun 2, 2014

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Description 

Climb up steep rock in a right facing corner. Move left to a heel hook / mantel move off a loose block to a sit down rest on a ledge. Continue past a few more closely-spaced bolts to a ledge. Find a slippery path up sloping holds directly up to the next bolt, or traverse left to more positive holds near Dragon's Tooth, climb up (risking a swinging slab fall) and back right to the bolt line. Continue up and right past two more bolts and prepare from some final crimps directly right of the last bolt and then straight up to the anchors (avoid loose flakes straight above the last bolt, and a loose flake below and right of the anchor).

Fun climbing with the exception of the loose rock and middle slab section.

Location 

Near the right end of 3rd Buttress. Of the 2 routes on the long flat wall between Skull in the Hole / Strip Tease and the steep cave with Bittersweet, this route is on the right.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Recommend long slings on the first two bolts, as well as clipping the 3rd bolt before pulling on the loose block on the ledge.

If cleaning while lowering, make sure your rope does not get stuck on a sharp edge between the last bolt and the anchors.


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