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The chimney move.
30 feet of good hands to red slings attached to a bomber fixed piece and a mostly secure fixed nut. Continue past to a ledge, climb through a 15 foot offwidth section, pull under and out the crack leading through the roof to the top.
By far the best gear line in Summersville.
Obvious crack to the right of Moon Pie Deluxe and Barfing Butterflies.
No bolt anchor. There is a healthy tree with a collection of (mostly) good slings and rings directly at the end of the crack system.Bring a #2 for the final roof.
Rack up to a #3 with some long runners for the offwidth.
Alex on the lower section, before the first small ...
Hand jamming through the roof.
Great hands through the final roof. Fingers below...
By Air Alexy
May 4, 2015
There is now a bolt anchor. This route is quite tough for the grade. I would say it is easily 5.10b/c. Whatever that guy is standing on in the picture is no longer there. You have to go completely horizontal.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Oct 27, 2015
Just to re-iterate, there is no foot rail out left in-order to reach the upper roof crack easy. You have to actually chimney up to reach the jams. I agree with a 10b/c rating. I went horizontal while jamming out the roof crack. Excellent crack climb that should not be missed if you bring your trad rack. I placed 3 bd#2 on this climb, which were my last 3 pieces.
By Mark Maier
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When I did the route there was no fixed gear or slings to be seen. There is a bolted anchor. I found the route clearly harder than other 5.9 cracks at the New. 10b/c seems too hard, to me, though. The chimney roof is really good, but arranging protection that doesn't lead to big rope drag while simultaneously keeping you from ledging out if you blow the lip turn is not simple, though.