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Unnamed Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,497
Submitted By: Derek Anderson on Aug 1, 2010

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beta photo for the 5.7 crack

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Just left of the 5.8 alcove boulder problem there is a flaring crack that is a mix of face/lb/jam. The crux is the first set of moves and climbing gets easier the higher you get. This is a decent lead although short and can be toproped with the tree if you scramble up the easier terrain. If leading take 1-4.5" pro For the bottom and extra long runners for the topanchor.


The route is on the main face of the swan slabs just to the right of the alcove boulder problem and the 5.1 gully. Look for a flaring crack that starts a few feet off the ground and gets wider as you get higher. Many different options for getting down from the tree anchor.


The crack takes medium/large gear, once above the crack and on a huge ledge you can continue up on 5.0 terrain for a few feet to a large tree that can be slung with extra long runners. The tree is about 30' up

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By Floyd Hayes
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you look carefully, both the Reid and Supertopo guides have an arrow pointing to the base of the climb with the label "5.9 move." And it's hard for 5.9! I've seen it shut down friends of mine who have climbed a lot of 5.10s. It's a nice lead, my son's first "5.9." To the left of it there is a steeper and wider "5.7" and a diagonal "5.8," both stiff for the grade. EDIT: See my later comment on June 12, 2017. I changed my rating to 5.7.
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Aug 3, 2010

I believe I was on the 5.7 crack , and that this description/route shoud be for that. However it was my first time in Yosemite and I'm not sure exactally what is what yet so please forgive me if I made a mistake.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Floyd Hayes' comment is meant for lena's lieback which is one crack to the right of this one. This is the crack that Floyd calls "a steeper and wider 5.7" in his description. First move on this is the crux, and it really isn't that stiff of a move. I'd say that 5.7 is accurate for the rating, I only rated it 5.4 to offset Floyd's 5.10a rating since he rated the wrong route.
By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first step is so greasy it felt like 10a but with some grip 5.7 would be appropriate. After the first move its pretty easy and barely worth climbing, unless your waiting for something else to do in the area.
By Jason Schmidt
From: Ghent, MN
Sep 29, 2011

If you look even closer you'd see that the picture DOES indicate the short 5.7 boulder problem,(the boulder in the upper left corner of the picture is above the diagonal 5.8 FH mentions),the problem with the slick 5.9 move is to the right and usually has a cheat rock at the base, and NONE of these cracks are Lena's Lieback which is way, waaay farther right.
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: West Lebanon, NH
Nov 3, 2011

Here's the unnamed 5.7 (5.9) crack with the "bouldery start" (5.9)
Feb 26, 2015

Can also sling the chockstone higher up and use as a directional... seemed pretty solid (I know i used a double runner, but I can't remember if I had to extend it a little further with a single.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Feb 22, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

For pro, just bring 1 #5 BD C4 cam and leap-frog it as needed.
By Floyd Hayes
Jun 12, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Reading through this for the first time since I wrote my comment in 2010, I see the source of confusion: the "Description" says "Just LEFT of the 5.8 alcove boulder problem" and the "Location" says "just to the RIGHT of the alcove boulder problem" (emphasis mine). The photograph reveals that the "Description" is wrong and the "Location" is accurate. There is another 5.8 alcove-like problem farther right, just left of Swan Slab Chimney, which was what I first understood, and Jonathan Steitzer added a link to the route my comment referred to. I've seen these cracks referred to as Patio Cracks, in which case this route could be referred to as Patio Cracks--Center.

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