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Royal Arches
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1096 T 
Age of Industry S 
Arches Terrace  T 
Arches Terrace Direct T 
Arete Butler T 
Astro Spam T 
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 
Demimonde S 
Double Trouble T 
Endorphine S 
Face Card T 
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Firefingers S 
Greasy but Groovy T 
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Maxine's Wall T 
Mid-Life Crisis T 
Move Like a Stud T 
Peruvian Flake T 
Poker Face S 
Rambler, The T 
Royal Arches T 
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 
Royal Flush T 
Royal Perogative T 
Rupto Pac T,S 
Serenity Crack T 
Shaky Flakes T 
Sons of Yesterday T 
Super Slide T 
Surf Nazi T 
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 
Trial By Fire T 
Unnamed 5.3 T 
Unnamed Chimney T 
Violent Bear It Away, The T 
Y Crack T 

Unnamed Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Season: Whenever it's dry
Page Views: 969
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Jan 14, 2013

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Whew, Melvin the squirrel made it.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Another alternative start to Royal Arches. This 5.5 chimney sees much less traffic than the first pitch of RA, so it's much grippier. Whatever, it's fun, go do it if you wanna do some easy chimney stuff, I'm just writing about it okay?

The bottom of the route is like a narrow bathtub, so it's filled with water whenever it's wet.

The Supertopo guide shows another little bit of 5.5 to the left after exiting the chimney, which should take to to RA itself.


It's a bit right/East of the 5.7 alt start for RA. Feminine Protection (a sport route) is to the right on the big steep slab.


Standard rack. I seem to remember placing a #3 and #4 C4, and slinging one of the rocks jammed up at the chockstone. You can build a solid natural anchor off that big tree above the end.

Photos of Unnamed Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Some bearded lunatic FREE SOLOING the EPIC 5.5 chi...
Some bearded lunatic FREE SOLOING the EPIC 5.5 chi...

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