Unnamed Center Route
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 632 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | tallmark515 on Aug 23, 2009 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
Not really sure what the first 10 feet of this route are supposed to be rated. Supertopo says .10d but it feels like hard 5.11 and maybe harder.
Fortunately, the start of the route can be bypassed via climbing the tree and clipping the second bolt.
The climbing above is definitely 5.10 and also a little scary and can feel insecure in spots.
Fortunately, the start of the route can be bypassed via climbing the tree and clipping the second bolt.
The climbing above is definitely 5.10 and also a little scary and can feel insecure in spots.
Protection
3 bolts. 1 useless one 6' from the ground and another one above that hanging half way out of the rock. 3rd bolt looked... better.
If you're gonna get scared at the top, consider bringing some finger sized cams and explore the few opportunities for gear above the 3rd bolt to get to the top.
If you're gonna get scared at the top, consider bringing some finger sized cams and explore the few opportunities for gear above the 3rd bolt to get to the top.
Photos
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