Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route lies a long way around the right side of the 2nd Meat Wall. It is characterized by a wonderful section of splitter hands in a vertical wall. This crack is just right of a highly visible tips splitter that I believe is yet unclimbed. The route starts left of the hand crack at the left side of a blocky pillar. Start at a finger crack in a corner and follow the low-angle blocky corner to reach the base of the vertical splitter (about 50 feet). Pull off the pillar with a few tight hands moves and cruise up the gorgeous perfect hands crack for about 50 feet. Here the crack decreases in angle and increases in size to an offwidth slot. Squeeze through this section to reach an anchor on the wall left of the crack at 130 ft. Don't be intimidated by the offwidth, it is probably only 5.8 or something, and the section of hands is well worth the walk and the discontinuity.
1 (.75 in), 2 (2 in), 3-5 (2 Camalot/equivalent), 1 (3.5 in.), and optional larger piece in the 4 Camalot range
|Comments on Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter
By Owen Murphy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 28, 2016
This route is fucking awesome. Scramble up the blocks backcleaning gear to cut rope friction and place a high .4 BD at the base of the crack. Make sure to smile.