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Unnamed Arete 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Lucas & Barak Shemai
Season: any
Page Views: 1,811
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Unnamed Arete


This is a spectacular, continuously overhanging pitch. It has no good rests and not one easy move. The rock is sharp and a bit crumbly in places, which is the only thing that keeps me from giving it 4 stars. It starts off with very steep, bouldery moves, then continues with less steep but more technical climbing up the arete. The climbing eases slightly once you reach the giant flake, but if you're like me, your arms are screaming by this point so things still feel quite hard. Lay-back for glory to the anchors!

Rock Climbing New Mexico gives the route a grade of "11d/12a," which is not an option on Mountain Project, so I just call it 11d.


Currently the farthest left route at the Rough and Readies. Climbs the obvious arete with bouldery start, to an overhanging flake. The first bolt is easy to clip, but a clip stick might be advisable for the second bolt.


7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The first bolt is easy to clip, but a clip stick might be advisable for the second bolt.

Photos of Unnamed Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A clean picture of the arete
BETA PHOTO: A clean picture of the arete

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By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

A good sidepull is gone from the very beginning of the route; third move or so, depending on your beta. That might just add enough pump factor to make it lean more towards 5.12. A couple other holds feel like they won't stay there forever, but they are still solid for Rough and Readies type of rock.
By Taylor J
From: new mexico, new england
Jan 9, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I would have to disagree and say in no way is this route harder than 11d but it's still a great route.
By Jason Carlson
From: El Paso, TX
May 28, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This feels harder than Abbey (5.12a) at the Tunnel but easier than Scott (also 5.12a) to me.
By Anthony McGlone
From: Las Cruces, NM
Dec 20, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Found new beta for the start, which was the crux for me. Lots of broken holds at the overhung beginning, feels like a V3 boulder problem, to me.

Broke a massive (1.5' x 2') foothold off at the start of the large flake at the top.

Use a stick clip or pads to protect the first few moves/bolts. Decking from the 2nd bolt is very possible.

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