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Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler
Season: typical Cactus Cliff months, this gets shade until around noon or so
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: slim on Feb 11, 2016

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Description 

Slab n' Vein is a nice route with great position that has the unfortunate reputation of being painful. Overall, the climbing is very good, and it probably isn't any more painful than the typical Shelf 12, assuming your feet don't slip when you have your finger in the potato peeler mono....

Begin at the start of the Illegal Smile arete, clipping the first 3 bolts of that route and then stepping left onto a big ledge (instead of moving out right onto the IS arete).

Get a good chalk and proceed upwards for about 3 bolts on easy but fun climbing. A tricky, circus trick crux off small crimps and awkward feet lets off to snag a quick clip before moving upward into a big move to good holds (which you wish you could easily clip from, but unfortunately cannot...). Another big move gets you out of here but lands you at a strenuous, runout clip, which you really do not want to blow. (If you are redpointing, a long runner is helpful here).

If you have made it this far, the rest of the route is fun, maybe 11-ish, techy climbing interspersed with some rests.

This route would probably be popular if the protection was sorted out a bit better. If the bolt at the end of the crux was moved down 3 feet, it would bump the quality up another star. I thought the overall difficulty was on par with most of the classic 12a-12b routes in the area, provided you can figure out the crux. The first time you try to do the crux it feels very improbable, but once you do it you can repeat it pretty much every time.

Hopefully some more folks will give this route a try.

Location 

Slab n/ Vein tackles the narrow west face to the left of the Illegal Smile arete, near the far left side of Cactus Cliff.

Protection 

Approximately 8 bolts and cold shut anchors.


Comments on Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) Add Comment
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By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Feb 16, 2016

FA - Glenn Schuler. I put this one up shortly before the Sheriff's Dept. ran everyone off for the last time and shut us down for climbing there anymore. At least one crucial hold broke off - the potato chip undercling that was at the horizontal break about halfway up. If anyone wants to reposition the bolts to improve the route, go for it. Not sure who came up with the name, I never named the route.
By slim
Administrator
Feb 16, 2016

Cool, thanks for the info, Glenn. The 2nd Shelf guide (Van Horn, Falcon) listed it as unknown and called it 5.11 with a question mark (IIRC). =Rico's guide called it 12d, same with Bob D's.

When I first tried it, there was definitely some loose stuff on it, including a dinner plate that came off and almost killed one of my friend's kids below (don't tell him, I don't think he knows, he or the young one for that matter - little dude just kept playing like nothing happened, he is probably used to that sort of thing... I nearly crapped myself :). I don't think too many people have done it.

Bolting is definitely classic Glenn/Kevin - doesn't phase you guys but most mortals will find them 'engaging'... the climbing is really cool on it, and the position is excellent.

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