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Unknown (just right of Spam) T 
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 
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Unknown Bandito Route T 
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 
Unnamed 10- T 
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 
Wavy Gravy T 
Way Of The Gun T 
Where's Carruthers? T 
Your Mama T 

Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,834
Submitted By: Danny Inman on May 4, 2005  with updates from Optimistic

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (160)
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Unknown - 5.9

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is around the corner from scarface. The anchors are visible and are 45-50 feet up. The route follows a right-leaning flake/crack system in a right-facing dihedral. Mainly fingers, thinner at the top. Although this route is short, it is worth doing. There is a two-bolt anchor with a chain.

(Per Mark Roberts duplicate entry in 2014 that has been merged into this one):
"A short but engaging route that runs from #2 Camalots to .5 Camalots with several face ledges to eke out some rests. Crux is 3/4 of the way up on ring locks, but there are good feet to take you through."

LOCATION (Per Mark Roberts duplicate entry in 2014 that has been merged into this one):
"A south-facing wall around the corner (climber's left) from Scarface and Where's Carruthers. Begins off a boulder with solid hands in above a flare for your feet. Leans to the right, angle kicks back as you climb higher."

Protection 

#2 camalot, 2 X 0.75 camalot, 0.4 camalot.

(Per Mark Roberts duplicate entry in 2014 that has been merged into this one):
"2 #2 Camalots, 3 #1 Camalots, 1 .75 Camalot and 1 .5 Camalot will sew it up. Bolted anchors."


Photos of Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unnamed 5.9 left of Scarface
Unnamed 5.9 left of Scarface
Rock Climbing Photo: getting one last piece in before the chains
getting one last piece in before the chains
Rock Climbing Photo: G. Neely on the Unnamed 5.9
G. Neely on the Unnamed 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: Unnamed 5.9
Unnamed 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: Unnamed 5.9 to the left of Scarface
Unnamed 5.9 to the left of Scarface

Comments on Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Oct 28, 2008

This is a nice warmup route that receives morning shade. I racked up on double 0.5, 0.75, 1, and 2 camalots though I prefer to sew it up on lead.
By Average Jim
Mar 11, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree, I led this climb the other day and placed a 2.5 tec friend, one BD #1, two BD .75s, and two BD .5s and that was plenty for someone just getting into leading the thinner sizes. Keep an eye out for the foot holds out to the right, they will give you a bit of a rest.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

FYI the left (lower) anchor bolt was extremely loose and wiggly on 11/24. I was able to tighten it back down, but it will likely come loose again.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Oct 2, 2013

Awkward start to great thin hands and fingers. Definitely look for good smears on the right. Awesome warmup/intro.
By justino
Apr 2, 2014

One day while walking along the wall, my partner pointed out this route and questioned whether I had climbed it before. Having done so, he then hung his head in shame admitting that it was one of his FA's. The route was named Scar Tissue and rated 5.9, however a plaque was never made. He was embarrassed to accept credit for the FA. Apparently the climb wasn't machismo enough to withstand his own scorn as a true grit desert curmudgeon.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Apr 2, 2014

Why was he ashamed?
By Jake Dickerson
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2014

I enjoyed it alot. Great easier route for a warm up or for new crack climbers.
By SThal
From: Logan, UT
Nov 22, 2016

This is the same route as "unnamed 10-" which is listed to the left of this here on MP.
By Keith W
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a fun route and certainly worth doing if you are in the area or waiting for Scarface. Short and sweet!

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