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Dead Cholla Wall
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Back to the Creek T,S 
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Twisted Feet S 
Unnamed 5.8 T 
Waiting for the Sun S 

Unnamed 5.8 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: arjunmh on Aug 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Hanna moving up through the lower dihedral. Note t...


Begin in a nice dihedral with decent pro to get you to the first ledge. Step right and head straight up a broken crack system to the anchors on top of the climb just left of Esmerelda.

I took the "name" of this in the Foley guide to mean it was 5.8, but would call it significantly easier than that. I thought 5.6, but Hanna following me suggested 5.7, so there you have it.


The trad line two climbs left of Esmerelda that is climb #22 in the Foley Guide.


A single rack of cams to #4 will do you fine. I placed a .75, .5, 2 and 4. But, there are plenty of options and I only took the #4 because I had it and there was an obvious placement for it. Solid gear and plenty of it on the whole route.

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By Greg Gaskin
From: Bay Area, CA
Apr 25, 2014

There is a three bolt anchor on the flat top of the rock after topping out that you can set up with a long cordalette. The three bolts are obvious on the approach trail to the crag.

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