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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 
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Carbondale Short Bus T 
Collision Course T 
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Crankcase T 
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Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 
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scout T 
Take 10 T,TR 
Take 5 T 
Town T 
Tranny Trouble T 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 
Unknown OW T 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 
Variety Pack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,613
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Jun 20, 2004

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is located climber's right along the cliff from the Crankcase/Monster Truck area, but well before the Northwest prow area. It starts right off the trail at a short uphill section of pebbly scree, and is easily identifiable as the only climb that starts with 2 bolts.

Two bolts protect bouldery moves to a stance where you can place a #3 or slightly larger sized camalot. The rest of the climb is quality thin hands climbing, split by a good rest after a small easy roof.

You rack should include at least:
- 1-2 x purple camalot or similar size
- 2-3 x green camalots
- 2 x black metolius or #2 friend
- 3-5 red camalots (or substitute by working in a green metolius or gold camalot when possible)
- this is just a very rough suggestion!

A single 70m rope gets you back down, but not a 60m. Guide is incorrect regarding route length.

Protection 

2 quickdraws. #3 or #4 camalot can protect moves above bolts. Steadily widens from 1" to 2.5" so bring purple camalots to gold camalots but expect red camalots to place better than gold. Crux is section demanding green camalots and #2 friends (aka black metolius)


Comments on Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start Add Comment
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By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 4, 2008

Great climb- poorly placed bolts at start- use a stick-clip. Bring 5 #2 friends and 5 #1 camalots. A few .5 camalots for the start of the splitter, and a few 2.5 friends/ 2 camalots for wider sections throughout. 70 meter rope works perfect.
By Mick S
From: Utah
Jun 12, 2009

Stout for the grade, especially the face climbing. Don't fall clipping the second bolt, it would be ugly. Excellent route once you get to the real crack climbing. You could get by with 3 or 4 #1 Camalots plus the gear bheller suggested. Tight #2 Friends at the crux.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 21, 2010

With all due respect, 'doable' is relative to your movement skills and the first bolt does nothing for you when you're pulling the starting face moves.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Oct 12, 2010

Route 18 in the latest Bloom guide
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 29, 2015

70 meter works, tie a knot in the end though for sure.

Also, the start is better protected now. I replaced both of the original bolts and moved the first bolt left so that it actually protects the cruxy moves there.

At least a couple Black Metolius or #2 Friends are key for this awesome line. A #4 Camalot fits well in the section between the bolts and where the crack starts.
By J. Hickok
Oct 4, 2015

Thanks a lot for moving the bolt and doing the bolt replacement. Climbs a lot better now through the starting bulge. 70m no problem at all with a little extra to spare. 5.11 is a very fair grade without trying to nitpick a more specific letter grade for varying hand sizes.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Mar 19, 2017

Bolts are perfect .... The first one keeps you from tumbling off the ledge if you blow it, The second protects the moves which in my opinion are the hardest moves on the climb. Beautiful sustained thin hands jamming. #2 friends work almost the whole way.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 9, 2017

The new bolts are very well positioned to protect the punchy opening moves.
A #4 camalot is useless.
Sustained thin to tight hands in a corner forever.
I would recommend a different rack than the one suggested:

1-2 red metolius (0.5s are tipped out)

4-6 0.75 or black metolius (or more as desired)

4 #1s (or more as desired)

An 80m had only a few meters left upon lowering. A 70m might get one down to the chossy ledge, but just barely. Tie a knot in the end of the rope.

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