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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2011

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very fun and varied line with a scary start. Boulder up the fractured face and corner placing good gear. Place a piece (green Alien fits best) in a hollow flake just before busting out hard moves (with some sand) to the ledge above...A fall here could be grim! I'm not so sure about the integrity of the hollow flake.

Head up the slot and jam the fun, wavy (mostly #2 Camalot and some #1's) flake/crack. Enter the relatively easy (and protectable) squeeze chimney (#2 - #.5 Camalots). Pull through the small roof on good jams (#1 Camalots). Finish the climb through a thinning corner switch on mostly #.75 to slightly tighter jams and then an anchor. Killer!!

Location 

This is about 2 routes right of Monster Truck and left of "Unnamed 5.11" with 2 bolts

Protection 

Camalots: #.2 - #3, one green Alien, lots of runners (Recommendation in Bloom Guide basically spot-on), 70M rope will NOT work


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By Christopher Barlow
Oct 29, 2011

Agreed about the headiness of the mantle onto the ledge. There is a #1 Camalot placement that one can get that is slightly more reliable than the green Alien piece, but it's tricky to find. I also used a #4 Camalot in the squeeze chimney. Maybe I missed something, maybe it was the early September sandiness, but at the time it seemed like a necessary piece to avoid an insecure and runout part of the chimney. Still, pulling over the roof and the thin hands/stacking corner above is spectacular.

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