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Finger Food 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 2,378
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: It's so good!

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Starts off-fingers, to a short tips section, to good fingers, to a welcome left rest ledge. After that, gun it up ten feet of good offset fingers with no feet (crux). The final 15-20 feet of this route are really cool moves through some breaks and over a little roof, not hard, but very unusual for the Creek.


    Right where the wall moves from north-facing to west-facing. It is very hard to miss– look for a fingers, off-fingers offset splitter just to the right of an arete. You can't see the anchors, they are just over the roof.


    friends sizes: (1).5, (4).75, (4)1, (2)1.5

    Comments on Finger Food Add Comment
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    By camhead
    From: Vandalia, Appalachia
    Nov 9, 2007

    I must also say that this is another climb in which the almighty authority David Bloom messes up gear beta in his guidebook. In this case, he omits the necessity of a .5 friend (blue TCU, .3 camalot), which is really nice to have about thirty feet up, just above the first horizontal break. Hell, you may even want a purple TCU if you really want to sew it up.

    Paul Nelson
    By Jeff G.
    From: Fort Collins
    Nov 12, 2007
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    This is a really fun pitch with some cool moves off the arete and a nice section of splitter fingers.
    By Michael Sokoloff
    From: Spokane, WA
    Mar 30, 2008

    Yet another fantastic pitch at the Creek without a name.

    I ran into the same issue with inaccurate pro beta from the guidebook.

    I do not however hold that against the guidebook author. As far as I'm concerned, the guy did everyone a great favor by taking the time and energy to write the book. Is it perfect? No. But right now it's all we have and that's tons better than what we had before (basically nothing). I do however commend the previous guidebook author (Marco C.) since again, nobody else stepped up to do it.

    Indian Creek has become one of the most popular climbing destinations in the country. It needs a guidebook to maintain some degree of order. Maybe some of the folks who've been climbing there since before it became such a destination resent the presence of the masses at IC and hold resentment towards the guidebook and its author because it symbolizes that the it's no longer their personal crag. I'm not sure what everyone's deal is and why the new guide is so maligned on these climbing websites.

    I just know the author put a bunch of time and energy into that guide. He is not getting rich from it either. Cut him some slack. If you don't like the book, don't bitch about it on the internet. Write your own.
    By snowhazed
    From: Oakland, Ca
    Nov 7, 2011

    Man- if you even bother to look at the crack before casting off you would see the gear beta in the guide is off. Take responsibility for yourself.
    By Kevin Volkening
    Feb 8, 2012

    Onsighted Left Crack . . . got my ass handed to me on this. Oh I LOVE the Creek.
    By 303scott
    Apr 2, 2012

    5.11? Gurka felt substantially easier than this. 20 feet of yellow/blue master cam with terrible/no feet....
    By greg t
    From: Chevy, Silverado
    Aug 12, 2012

    is there any other guide book that gives you such precise gear beta? Is there any other climbing area that you can simply look at the climb, and get the all the gear beta on you're own? Probably not. It may as well be sport climbing that goes clean at C1. This climb is great though, hint: use the arete.
    By Casey Zak
    Apr 1, 2013

    This route is identifiable by the 'V.XI' etched into the rock at the base of the route in place of a plaque. Personally, I suggest that this route be called 'The Roman Route' or something to that effect for this reason. I thought it was one of the coolest climbs at Res Wall. The proximity of the arete and the breaks make it really interesting. Unfortunately I mistook this route for Flesh and Bone 5.11- and so my rack was way off, but I remember BD .75s in the beginning, to .5s to .4s and several blue metolius sized pieces needed for the thin cruxy part. A #2 friend would fit perfectly in the base of the crack after the final break.
    By Steven Lucarelli
    From: Moab, UT
    Oct 24, 2013
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Route name is Finger Food, F.A. Jay Smith.
    By Trevor Bowman
    From: Sheridan, WY
    Mar 18, 2015

    Anchor is now tat free. Chains on the two original drilled angles, which still look decent. A newer 1/2 bolt has links on it.

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