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Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 
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Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: The route

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route has two starts, the left one is a sweet fingers to off fingers splitter which is what we did. The right one we didn't do but it looked like it starts out as .4 Camalots in a corner and then gets bigger.

Both cracks start by gently climbing up some flaky rock that is easy to climb but poor in quality. The left crack starts with .3 fingers to a stance on a sketchy looking flake/tooth thing. It looks like it should fall out but it was solid enough to stand on, I wouldn't recommend pulling on it or standing on the far left end of it though. Continue up .5 and .75 fingers with nice pods for your toes until you get to a small ledge. Step right on the ledge to the corner and cruise up hands and thin hands to the anchor.


Far right side of 4X4, just left of Scout.


2 each .3 & .4 Camalot, 3 each .5 to #2 Camalot. The anchor could use some chains or at least some new webbing.

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By slim
Apr 13, 2012

great route. right hand start is .3 to .5 and maybe a couple .75 camalots with good climbing. the upper section is beautiful tight hands with sharp, crisp rock. i think bloom's book calls it a 100', which is a dangerous mistake as you are rapping off the very end of the rope with a 70.

great addition steven!
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 3, 2014

Sweet route! Did the left start which would be an awesome route all on it's own. You might want to save a .75 for the top.
By Lyle Harte
From: Denver
Oct 31, 2016

Stellar route that is well worth the hike. The right start is very fun, probably 5.11-. Could use a slew of cams from BD .2 to .75 (metolius helps to fill in size gaps).

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