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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
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Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Seppuku Flake T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 2,402
Submitted By: e Dixon on Oct 2, 2006

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Fish Eye

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Decent warm-up route that that is probably easier than the 5.10 rating assigned to it. The start is loose-fingers or tight-hands and quickly goes to good hands. There are also face features to make it easier. After the hands section the crack pinches down and then finish to the anchors in another loose-fingers or tight-hands crack. Pretty fun, but not up to typical IC standards.


Route starts on the right side of the buttress. It is one to the right of Railroad Tracks and a little before Three Strikes You're Out.


Camalots from green to gold should be sufficient.

Photos of Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Right near the top!
Right near the top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the base.  "Railroad Tracks&q...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base. "Railroad Tracks&q...

Comments on Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner Add Comment
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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Dec 10, 2006

I found two brand new quick draws at that anchors on this route. Describe them, and you can have them back.
By climberz
Sep 19, 2007

One of the anchor bolts was hanging partway out of the hole spring 07'. This climb sucks anyway. Watched a girl almost deck from the top of this pile. She was placing a piece in the upper crack when she fell, bounced off the ledge and sailed head-first toward the ground to be stopped 5' above the ground and slammed face-first into the corner. The piece that caught her was a green camalot. It broke out a couple of inches of rock and had only two lobes left in the crack. Yikes!
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 23, 2008

Rating is closer to 5.8 than 5.10. Barely mediocre climbing considering the classic routes that abound on this cliff.
By logan johnson
From: West Copper, Co
Oct 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Does anyone know if there is a second OW pitch that goes to the top of the large pillar?
By Average Jim
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this rout yesterday, fun/nothing spectacular, however it gives you a good angle to take photos of folks climbing Railroad Tracks.
By Bill Grasse
From: Carbondale, CO.
Apr 26, 2011

I have always called this Guides Crack. I don't know where I heard it but since it doesn't have a name... ? Well, just a thought at least.
By Dan White
From: Western CO
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is an old plaque at the base that appears to say Syd Vicious 5.10-.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 16, 2016

5.10???? was told by some folks at the crag that it was 5.7. Three kids had just walked up it. Seemed pretty easy to me. 5.8 at most.

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