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Lyme Disease Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cosgrove Face S,TR 
Lucky in Love S,TR 
Pigs' Feat S 
Ticks ripped my flesh S 
Unlucky in Love S 
Vixen S,TR 

Unlucky in Love 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on May 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Fun route with unique, dynamic movement. It's a bit contrived in the sense that if you decide to mantle onto the mossy ramp by bolt two instead of staying on the arete, you can avoid the crux. However, this really isn't too tempting because all the holds that are "off" are covered in moss.

The route starts with some balancy slab moves to get established under the second bolt. From here, power up and right through an intricate and gymnastic ascending traverse that requires big moves between large sloping holds. The difficulty backs off after a good rest at the fourth bolt.

Location 

On the right side of Lyme Disease Rock, the first bolted route uphill of the classic "Ticks Ripped My Flesh", 5.10b. Not as far uphill as "Lucky in Love". Look for bolts that go up and noticeably right on a bulbous arete-like feature.

Protection 

4 bolt to a two-bolt anchor
-- the first bolt is kind of sketchy and could use replacement
-- it would be difficult to TR (without directionals) because of the traversing nature of this route


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By Bobby F
Jun 16, 2016

Took a leader fall on the first bolt 6/15/16, and it held. Didn't read that this bolt needs replacement until after.
By Mike Ferrell
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 25, 2016

The amount of moss and debris on the holds here is irritating. The first bolt is downright dangerous. Glad you survived the fall Bobby^
By John E.
Mar 19, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

First bolt is definitely sketchy. The hanger is spinning at this point and I wouldn't trust a fall on it.

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