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Unleash The Lions 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: P1 Bob Jasperson. P2 Gillett, Sullivan, and Crawford, 2002
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,302
Submitted By: J1. on Oct 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Andy leading the 1st pitch.


Pitch 1 - climb a short crack into the right-facing flake/dihederal, when it fades angle right toward the chains above the tree. 70 feet, 5.6.

Pitch 2 - move left into a nice crack and climb it, going around the roof above on the right. Continue with discontinous cracks and flakes and belay behind a large boulder. 60 feet, 5.7.

Downclimb/walkoff to the SE.


Follow the approach description for the Coliseum.

This route is to the left and kind of behind the Ionic Column route.


SR, chains at the end of P1, no anchors at the top.

Per Sarah K: there are new rap anchors on P2. A 70m rope just barely reaches the ground from the top.

Photos of Unleash The Lions Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun in the crack.
Having fun in the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda on Unleash the Lions.
Brenda on Unleash the Lions.
Rock Climbing Photo: Following on Unleash the Lions P1.
BETA PHOTO: Following on Unleash the Lions P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unleash The Lions.
BETA PHOTO: Unleash The Lions.

Comments on Unleash The Lions Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 2, 2017
By slim
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The walkoff from the end of the 2nd pitch looks improbable, but apparently isn't that bad. When I did the route, I ended up going another 50 feet up an arete to a chossy ledge and traversed left to a tree to rap. This completely sucked. Don't do it. If you have any qualms about bushy, exposed downclimbs, you'll probably want to rap off after the first pitch.
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lots of loose rock just past the roof moves. Careful.
By goatboywonder Patrick
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route! Pitch 2 was pretty cool, but check your holds before yarding too hard. Too bad the walk off sucks so badly. I would be willing to install a bolted rap anchor at the top if I can get a blessing from the FAs.
By Bernard Gillett
May 6, 2012

GBW: I've got no problem with you adding a rappel station at the end of pitch 2 if you can find a good location. I'm certain the other people involved in the 1st ascent wouldn't mind, either. You might want to budget some time clearing loose rock from the 2nd pitch to make sure pulling down the rope won't also pull down a bunch of rock.
By Dankasaurus
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a really fun 5.7, thanks to Bernard Gillett and Co for putting it up. Do the "second"'s great (I led as one pitch). A rap station up high would really improve the route and reduce the erosion in the walk off gully.
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Aug 13, 2012

Led this today, fun! Only did P1 since there are no rap anchors on P2.
By Jim Clarke
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Warm up the early season "trad head" on this fun run, good gear and good moves on P2.
By Sarah K
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2016

There are new rap anchors on P2. A 70m rope just barely reaches the ground from the top.
By Mathias
From: Loveland, CO
Apr 23, 2016

Used the new rap anchors today. Thank you, whoever installed those.
By Dlent lent
Jun 13, 2016

Loose/questionable rock but other than that fun.
By hunterkonchan
Jun 23, 2016

Can be done as one pitch. There are rap rings at the top, but they are located in a odd spot to the left as you reach the summit. Rapping with 70m rope will put your tippy toes on the ground.
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
May 2, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun, cruiser route. 2nd pitch roof is fun to pull around. Be careful of loose blocks after roof though, plenty up top.

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