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Unkown 2 (Pikeline?) 

Unkown 2 (Pikeline?) 

WI3+

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 130'
Original: WI3+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: E thatcher on Jan 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: this is what the route looked like last year when ...

Description 

10 feet left of the prominent prow of rock that defines the left side of Duofold is a thin runnel of ice that comes down through a small corner and covers a vegetated slab. Climb this thin runnel, to a thicker slab below a body length Pillar. Top out onto a rock slab

Here we belayed off of a dead/ dying tree and some nuts in a corner. From this belay walk left along the margin of the ice and head up the fat finish of Bloodline to rappel tree.

A mixed option straight up would be possible with more rock gear

The 3rd edition guidebook description for Pikeline fits this climb perfectly, despite the fact that a climb 100'+ to the right is currently known as Pikeline. Anybody know the history here? or this climb's true name? There is a very old (lichen covered) sling at our first pitch belay.

Protection 

A stubbie and some yellow screws are helpful for the thin bottom pitch. Set of nuts and/ or some small- medium cams are helpful for belay anchor.

Rappel anchor at top of second pitch. 2 rope rappel down bloodline to the ground


Photos of Unkown 2 (Pikeline?) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chance on the steeps, nearing the end of pitch two...
Chance on the steeps, nearing the end of pitch two...

Comments on Unkown 2 (Pikeline?) Add Comment
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By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 15, 2013

I was looking at that today, and thought it very intriguing. According to Cormier's Pikeline description, Pikeline itself is in fact 30 m right of Duofold, and is the rightmost climb on the cliff. The one you climbed is certainly a unique line, and should be listed as such with its own name, topo, and pictures if you have any more.

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