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Unknown S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Ted Waldor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 182
Submitted By: Austin Sobotka on Jul 27, 2017

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Testing out the fall in the midst of a cloud. ...

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a linkup of Eureka and Hard day, and by far the easiest route on the steep portion of the Orifice.

Climb Eureka up to just past the seventh bolt. From here (at the end of the left facing lie-back flake) you could clip the eighth bolt on Eureka. Don't. Instead, reach directly right to a jug, execute some fun, gymnastic moves, trending slightly down and to the right, until you reach the bolt that is level with you on Hard Day. Don't clip this bolt (rope drag). Clip the next bolt then finish in the chimney of Hard Day.

It might make sense to eventually get some new bolts in place to make this transition a bit cleaner. As it is there's a bit of a runout to the first bolt that should be clipped on Hard Day. That being said, I tested the fall and it's perfectly safe.

Protection 

b/c


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By Luke Bertelsen
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 27, 2017

5.11 eh?
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 27, 2017

That's my vote, some more input would be great though!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 28, 2017

This variation has already been done Austin, years ago.
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 28, 2017

Cool, do you know the name/who first did it?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 29, 2017

Ted Waldor.

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